This is one of five examples of the Delaloye Le Garde-Temps* with a 37mm white gold case and elegant, tuxedo-style dial. It was created by the independent maker Nicolas Delaloye and features his in-house calibre ND01, visible through an exhibition caseback. The aesthetic and mechanics benefit from the watchmakers experience working with some of the best regarded brands in Switzerland.

When Nicolas Delaloye first charted an independent path in 2001, his first order of business was to devise a calibre of his own. While he procured the gear train from a vintage bauche the AS1130 the rest of the calibre bore his unique vision. The process of development took three years. He paired it with a classical case, of the sort he had experience working with at Patek Philippe during his several stints with the brand.

After Delaloye first showcased the watch at Baselworld in 2004, on his way back to Geneva on the train he received a phone call from a Japanese enthusiast who had come upon his work at the trade fair. That first order led the watchmaker to create an exceedingly small number of his signature piece, the Le Garde-Temps. He produced them in 37mm and 41mm cases, with the majority of them produced in the latter size. Although he had originally planned a series of 50 pieces, Delaloye ended up creating just 18 examples of the Le Garde-Temps with 41mm cases. In the 37mm size he made just five watches between 2004 and 2016, when the brand was active.

While Delaloye took a break from producing under his own name, choosing instead to restore pieces for the Patek Philippe Museum, the small number of pieces that had his name on the dial continued to find favour with those with a proclivity for classical watches. It was in fact partly due to requests from enthusiasts asking Delaloye to create examples of the Le Garde-Temps that the watchmaker decided to establish a new workshop in Genevas Carouge district and begin work on a new series starting in 2024.

This is one of five examples of the Le Garde-Temps with a 37mm case. Bearing an early serial number, it is crafted from white gold and has a robust form. The rounded bezel is high polished while the midcase is media blasted. The substantial, yet short lugs originate from here, equal in profile to the midcase. On top, the lugs are high polished like the bezel. The crown is well proportioned it is knurled and wears free hand engraving on top with the watchmakers initials and a fleur-de-lis motif.

The exhibition caseback, flat and brushed, is secured by six screws. The caseback features free-hand engravings in a calligraphic font detailing the series, serial number out of 50 as well as its place of origin. This is where the precious metal hallmarks are also located.

The dial wears an elegant tuxedo colourway. The black rim includes a chapter of applied Breguet-style Arabic hours and plots, interspersed with grey printed minutes. The central section, framed by a ring and sunken, is decorated with beautiful engine turning. It plays with light, contrasting against the matte finish of the black periphery. This section also features a black arc with the brand mark. Underneath it the word Geneve is pad printed. Overlapping with the central portion is the subsidiary seconds register. It is also framed by a ring and appears on the same plane as the sunken central portion. It wears engine turning in a concentric circular pattern and is adorned with a black printed Arabic quarter chapter of seconds. Plying the face are mirror-polished feuille-style hands.

The calibre ND01, visible through the caseback, is finely finished. The barrel bridge has an elegant, wave-like form, while the wheels of the going train are anchored by a hill-shaped bridge. The jewels on which these wheels pivot are ensconced in gold chatons. The single barrel provides the calibre with 72 hours of reserve. It has been adjusted to five positions.

The regulator atop the polygon balance bridge is black polished, as is the cock on the escape bridge. The Ctes de Genve on the bridges is consistent and elegant, while their edges are finished with fine anglage. A plaque on the bridge anchoring the going train is engraved with the watchs serial number of out 50. All engravings on the caseback, crown and on the movement are the work of engraver Mosquera whom Delaloye encountered during his time at Patek Philippe.

The watch comes on an 18mm wide black alligator-grained leather strap secured by a white gold, signed deployant clasp. The set includes the outer and inner boxes and warranty paperwork.

In this iteration, the Delaloye Le Garde-Temps, is one of a handful, created by one of the best respected and experienced watchmakers about to start creating under his own name again.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Delaloye Le Garde-Temps will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Delaloye Le Garde-Temps in is excellent overall condition. The case beautifully preserved, with superficial marks on the very surface of the polished bezel portion and the smallest of imperfections on the top left and reverse left lug. The dial, hands and movement are free of any signs of imperfection.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.