Here is an unusual example of the De Bethune DB28* with a rose gold case and a set of the brands shorter floating, spring-mounted lugs, crafted from grey oxidised zirconium. The dial, a result of consultation between the brand and the original owner, follows the colourway of the case and lugs, with a uniformly rose gold appearance. Underpinning the revolutionary co-axially mounted chronograph is the manually-wound calibre 2030 featuring the brands proprietary absolute clutch system.

De Bethunes take on the chronograph was first revealed in 2006 when it was showcased in the DB21. It co-axially mounted all five hands three for the chronograph and two to tell time from the central point pinion on the dial. The chronograph time scales were arranged in concentric circles the outermost one tracked seconds; the one in from that the minutes while the innermost one registered up to 24 elapsed hours. In keeping with the tidiness of the layout, it was engaged by a monopusher. The success of the arrangement resulted in the Maxichrono being inducted to lines such as the DB28 and the DB29.

This is a rather special example of the DB28 Maxichrono. A thoroughly traditional, round rose gold case 45mm across and 11mm thick sits ensconced within a cage formed by spring-loaded floating lugs that articulate from the 3 and 9 oclock positions where they are screwed on to the case. The lugs are crafted from zirconium, oxidised to a lustrous grey and polished by hand. They are of the shorter variety offered by De Bethune and feature the brands signature skeletonised detail as well as the ogival ends.

The rose gold case has a mushroom-like profile, mainly due to the larger circumference of the bezel. The case is evenly high polished and is sandwiched by sapphire crystals on the dial and movement side. The crystals have a hardness of 1,800 Vickers and wear a double anti-reflective coating.

The dial is a point of possible uniqueness and resulted from consultation between the brand and the original owner. Entirely consistent with the case and lugs, the brushed dial wears a rose gold appearance, with rose gold Arabic hour markers. The outermost 60-seconds register is followed by a chemin de fer track for the elapsed minutes. Both are printed in black, as is the 24-hour chronograph scale situated in the dish-style chapter that sits in the innermost part of the dial. The chronograph seconds hand is crafted from rose gold, as are the Breguet-style hours and minutes hands. The chronograph minutes and 24 hours hands are in stainless steel, for visual contrast. The monopusher crown at 12 oclock features deep knurling to aid manual-winding.

Visible through the exhibition caseback is the manually wound calibre 2030. It features twin barrels giving the calibre five days of reserve. Its 384 parts have been thoroughly skeletonised wherever feasible, aiding aesthetics and visibility. At the heart of the co-axially mounted chronograph function is De Bethunes proprietary absolute clutch that governs the chronograph seconds. This ensures that when the chronograph is engaged, the seconds hand begins precisely and without a jerk, registering elapsed seconds accurately. The chronograph minutes is governed by a shifting pinion clutch system while the chronograph minutes, are by a horizontal clutch. The three different clutches for three semi-independent systems, controlled by three column wheels, are designed with their individual functionality in mind.

The balance, a particular focus of De Bethunes continued research into chronometry, is anchored by two rose gold triangular bridges and features a white gold wheel with a silicon inner rim. The wider movement is finished in an even higher polish, with the brand mark, logo and other details of the watch laser etched.

On the 26mm between the lugs is a fine-grained brown leather strap secured by a pin buckle that follows the form of the lugs. The frame, composed black oxidised zirconium features a rose gold pin. The pin buckle is signed. The watch comes with its original bill of sale from 2017 as well as service paperwork, a leather-lined display box as well as a spare set of longer lugs.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This De Bethune DB28 Maxichrono is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear, and likely only worn on a handful of occasions. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfection. The hallmarks and engravings on the case back are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.