The reference 5130/1G-011was introduced in 2006, as the latest chapter in a legacy of world time wristwatches (namely the references 1415 HU and 2523). Thisref. 5130/1G-011features a Cottier-inspired world-time mechanism, as well as a seldom-seen white gold removable bracelet.

The World Time

The 5130Gs world-time mechanism harks back to the 1930s, when talented Geneva watchmaker, Louis Cottier, devised an ingenious, ultra-thin mechanism, which simultaneously displayed the correct hours across the world's time zones (through a rotating 24-hour ring) and local time.

The concentric, 24-hour chapter-ring is divided into nocturnal and diurnal hours. In the design, the local time zone is set at the 12 o'clock position, with the hour and minute hand set at local time. The correct time (hours and minutes) is then displayed for every time zone in the world simultaneously (with clear local-time indication) on a single dial. In 1959, Patek Philippe obtained a patent for Cottier's device - introducing the calibre 240 HU, in 1999.

The Design

Twenty-four cities are displayed on the silver outer edge of the dial, with a hand-guilloch pattern found in the middle. The oversized Observatoire-style hands are reminiscent of Patek Philippe's great world time watches from the past, as well as providing enhanced legibility against the stark black centre portion of the dial.

At 39.5mm in diameter, the case of the 5130G is both contemporary and classic in its design. Its rounded shape, from its curved crown guards to its elongated lugs, lend fluidity and elegance to the watch. Polished throughout, the white gold case complements the ornate design of the dial.The pusher on the left side of the case is used to advance the hour hand forward in one-hour increments to set the local time when one is travelling. A truly functional complication, whichmay still prove useful today.

Seldom seen, this particular example is also accompanied by a removable white gold bracelet, which was only made available to clients on the later version of the reference, before it was discontinued in 2016. Consisting of thick, polished links, the bracelet lends a completely different aesthetic to the watch than if it were accompanied by a leather strap. The finishing on the case and bracelet aresimilar and equally impressive.

The Movement

Powered by the above-mentioned, ultra-thin calibre 240 HU (Heure Universelle), the self-winding movement features a 22K gold micro-rotor, allowing for a height less than 3.9mm; despite the world-time mechanism, placed dial-side on top of the movement.

The calibre 240 HU features a Spiromax balance spring (made of silicon-based Silinvar), working in conjunction with a Gyromax balance-wheel. The movement is beautifully finished, with fine Geneva stripes, perlage and anglage, as well as exquisite chamfering on all angles.

The Set

This Patek Philippe ref. 5130/1G-011is accompanied by its original inner and outer boxes, literature, leather folder and stamped Certificate of Origin. The watch comes with its originalwhite gold Patek Philippe bracelet.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look