ThisLimited EditionF. P. JourneRutheniumTourbillon Souverainwatch is one of only ninety-nine pieces, created between 2001 and 2003. Each of the series is individually numbered (XX/99-01T) and cased in platinum. The pairing of a quintessentialcomplication by withthe attractiveness of ruthenium coating on the dial and movement makes the watch both mechanically and visually impressive.
The Ruthenium Collection
Five watches were chosen for the Ruthenium Collection, representing the latter part of s brass movement production, and this was the first time that any of Journes watches were made with ruthenium-coated dials and movement plates. Four of the five pieces, including thisTourbillon Remontoir dEgalite, have been discontinued in the collection. Moreover, the Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain, with open remontoire at sixo'clock, is the only example of the original Tourbillon made with a 40mm case.
In his on the F.P. Journe Tourbillon, Ben Clymer of HODINKEE described the Ruthenium Collection Tourbillon as such,
"Let's assume you will not be able to purchase one of the two prototype wristwatches, or one of the 20 Souscription watches you are still left with a wide and varied range of watches over which you can truly obsess.The easiest collectible reference T to spot is the ruthenium limited edition (...)They were produced in 2001 and, to many, they're the next most desirable Journe tourbillon after a super early example of a T."
A quintessential complication
Monsieur Journes mastery is evident in the look and feel of his craftsmanship - inspired by his immediate works after graduation, restoring 18th and 19th-century marine chronometers and pocket watches. The earliest works ofFranois-Paul Journeeffortlessly blend traditional watchmaking with modern Haute-horology, in perfect harmony.
TheTourbillon is quintessentially anF.P Journe, in both its design language and movement. TheTourbillon Souverainwas the very first production wristwatch fromMontres Journe, originally made between 1999 and 2003, with a remontoir degalit,rather than a dead-seconds complication.
The Design
Housed in a 40 mm dress watch case, the watch is made distinctive by the ruthenium coated dial. The charcoal grey surface is delicately textured, giving the dial a mixture of tones and added depth. The ruthenium plating reflects light differently, transitioning to a smokey, silver hue from different angles. A separate silver guilloch dial for the hours and minutes is displayed to the right side of the dial. The words Invenit et Fecit are inscribed below the tourbillon (Latin for Invented and Made or more literally 'Designed and built by F.P. Journe') in classicF.P. Journestyle - a nod to signing conventions of a century ago. At twelveoclock, a power reserve indicator of forty-two hours is also shown.
The one-second remontoir degalitsystem is displayed in one of two apertures on the dial side, providing constant force to the escapement, acting as a transmission and balancing system for the transfer of power between the mainspring and the escapement.
The Movement
This manual-winding,F.P. Journecaliber1498tourbillon movement is ruthenium-plated brass, with Ctes de Genve, constructed with 25 jewels and a shock-absorber mechanism. It further features a straight-line lever escapement, and monometallic 4-arm balance with 4 timing weights, adjusted to 5 positions. It includes a self-compensating free-sprung flat balance spring. The movement is engraved Chronometre A Tourbillon and Remontoir dEgalit.
In 2004,Journebegan manufacturing movements from 18-carat gold; however - interestingly - it isFranois-Paul Journes earliest brass-movement pieces thatcommand more interest from collectors. Its estimated that only 2,000 brass-movement examples were produced, across all lines, and were manufactured exclusively between 2001 and circa 2004. These earlierF. P Journepieces are highly sought-after, owing to their placement within the brands history and rarity. The Ruthenium Series only enhances these qualities, using the light-absorbing dark metal to create a unique aesthetic.
The Set
Combining many of the most desirable aspects of F.P. Journes manufacture, the Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverain continues to represent a rare opportunity to acquire something of a landmark piece in the history of the brand. Ninety-nine examples may have been produced, though only a handful of these have reached the market since, demonstrating the affection many owners of the series clearly have for the execution of these models.
This Limited Edition,F. P. JourneRutheniumTourbillon Souverain is accompanied by its originalRuthenium Collection boxes, certificate of origin and accompanying materials within the complete set.
Closer look
Brand: | F. P. Journe |
Model: | RutheniumTourbillon Souverain - 01T |
Movement: | mechanical manual-winding Cal. 1498 |
Functions: | tourbillon, remontoir degalit,hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds |
Features: | power reserve display, ruthenium-coated dial, ruthenium-coated brass-movement, display back, blue steel hands |
Case: | 40 mm platinum |
Crystal: | sapphire front and display-back |
Strap: | taupe grained leather strap, blackF. P Journe alligatorstrapwith platinum buckle, additional platinum/white gold deployant clasp |
Lug/buckle width: | |
Year: | sold in 2006 |
Box & papers: | full set - original box and papers |
Whilst the calibre 1498 tourbillon movement of this Ruthenium Tourbillon Souverainis functioning well, A Collected Man is unable to provide a guarantee of timekeeping accuracy.