This manually-wound Daniel RothDouble-Face Tourbillonref. 187is one of the earliest wristwatches to have left the eponymous brand.Often considered a rite of passage for independent watchmakers looking to prove themselves, this tourbillon certainly showcases Roth's horological ability and aesthetic refinement. Trained at Audemars Piguet and having played a significant role in the resuscitation of Breguet, Roth offered a creative take on traditional, Breguet-inspired styling, of which this piece is an enduring testament.

The Story of Daniel Roth

Daniel Roth was born into a family with deep horological roots, with his grandfather and great-grandfather both working as watchmakers in Neuchtel, Switzerland. Following this path, he completed his technical apprenticeship in Nice, before fulfilling his ambition of moving to the Valle de Joux, one of the worlds watchmaking epicentres. He joined Audemars Piguet at a young age, at a time where he was the only watchmaker who didnt come from Le Brassus, the brands historic home.

Following seven years at Audemars Piguet, Roth was noticed by the Chaumet brothers, the then owners of Breguet. In the midst of the Quartz Crisis, they wanted to restore the brand to its former glory and were looking for a Master Watchmaker who could help. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacture, though only after going back to school to further study Breguets archives and techniques. Over fourteen years, he would help rebuild the watchmaker, cementing the style, finishing and complications in wristwatch form.

In 1989, Daniel Roth decided to establish . One of the first truly independent watchmakers working under his own name, he created Breguet-inspired pieces, with a twist. He cemented aesthetic codes which are distinctively his own, from the double-ellipse case to the sharply executed pinstripe guilloch dials used on some of his models. Though his output was limited, it was plentiful in its diversity and inventiveness, from tourbillons to chronographs. Daniel Roth was one of the key brand names of independent watchmaking in the 1990s, alongside , and , among others. In 2000, the company was sold to Bulgari, with the watchmaker no longer being involved from that point onwards.

A rite of passage

With a , theescapement and balance wheel are mounted within a rotating cage, the purpose of which is to counteract the disruption caused by gravity. This regular rotation is intended to average out any positional errors and maintain greater accuracy. Tackling the complicationhas become a sort of rite of passage for manyindependent watchmakers looking to make a name for themselves, witha notable example being Franois-Paul Journe, who financed theinception of his brand by creating twenty . The visual appeal of the complication, its storied past and the skill needed to assemble one according to more traditional methods have all contributed tothis.

Roth followed a similar path, by offering this distinctive Double-Face Tourbillonref. 187,as one of his earliest watches. The choiceseems all the more obvious, when you consider the fact that the complicationwas first invented by Abraham-Louis Breguet in 1795. With a deep-seated respect for the watchmaker, having also been a guiding force behind resuscitating his name in modern times, the tourbillon feels like the truest manifestation of Roth's vision of watchmaking. Nowadays, years after he parted with his own brand,Daniel Roth spendsalmost all of his time dedicated tomaking tourbillons under the Jean Daniel Nicolas name.

The Design

This manually-wound Double-Face Tourbillonref. 187is a quintessential execution of the watchmakers style, with a twist. Roth takes a historically significant,Breguet invention and transforms it by putting his own innovative expression into the piece. Made out of non-treated white gold, the front dial features a sharply executed Clous de Parispattern in silvery-grey. This pattern was used on the earliest pieces created by the brand, being later replaced by a different style of guilloch. This contrasts with the brushed surfaces of the chapter ring with roman numerals and stacked-seconds sector.The contrast in finishing gives a satisfying depth to the design and a welcome touch of variety.

The front dial is signed DANIEL ROTH at 8 oclock and NUMERO XX at 4 oclock, where the watchs unique number is displayed. The lance-shaped hands, another visual inspiration from the Abraham-Louis Breguet, are rendered in blue steel.

Taking centre stage is the one minute tourbillon, which sits at the 6 o'clock position and at a lower depth to the dial. This showcases the unusual triple-armed seconds hand, where three blued steel hands of varying lengths glide over three different seconds registers. With each register covering a 20-second period, the three hands gradually cover a full minute, with the smallest one starting at the bottom, and the longest one finishing the minute at the top.This represents a novel and visually satisfying method of displaying the seconds,demonstrating Roth's attempt to bring his own take to the traditional complication.

The reverse side of the case features a repeat of theClous de Parispattern in silvery-grey. This time,a calendar sub-dial sits inthe 12 o'clock position, with the power reserve below this. "Reserve de Marche" is printed in an elegant and sophisticated typeface, with "BAS" and "HAUT" sat on either end, which translates to "Low" and "High" respectively. Both complications feature a blued, baton hand, which echoes the Breguet inspired theme. Crisply printed, "REGULATEUR TOURBILLON"hugsthe calendar sub-dial, within a brush-finished cartouche.

The yellow gold double-ellipse case of the Double-Face Tourbillonis unique in its execution. Neither round nor rectangular, it balances the two different shapes, complemented by a stepped bezel and sharp, straight lugs. Measuring 38mm x 35mm in diameter, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist and wears larger than its dimensions would otherwise suggest.

The Movement

Assembled by hand in the brands Valle de Joux workshop, this Daniel Roth Tourbillonis powered by a reworked Lemania bauche, which Roth himself developed while still at Breguet.The overall finishing is impressive, with rounded and black polishing on the tourbillon bridge, as well as chamfered edges on theblack polishedcarriage.

The Set

This Daniel RothDouble-Face Tourbillonref. 187comes on a bespoke 20 x 19mm strap, with curved ends, in addition to the original deployant buckle in yellow gold, which features a vertical pinstripe pattern and Daniel Roth cartouche.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Daniel RothDouble-Face Tourbillonref. 187will be subject to 20% VAT.Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.

Closer look