A special order Tank Cintre* commissioned under the NSO programme. It pays tribute to the iconic Cartier London dials manufactured in years past. Where some examples still leave a border of negative space around the numerals, these stretch out to fill the entire dial, extending to the very edges, aided by the lack of a chemin-de-fer.

Released in 1921, in a period of unbridled optimism, modernism and prosperity referred to as the Roaring Twenties, the Cartier Tank Cintre embodied the spirit of the era perfectly. First conceived in the Paris branch of the historic house, the Cintre is instantly recognisable, its exaggerated curved form almost an expression of the collective exuberance of a continent eager to leave behind the shadows of a devastating World War. Its dramatic lines were impossibly glamorous and its Art Deco-inspired dial very of the day. Supposedly conceived in an attempt to convert wristwatch sceptics of the period, the curved case that followed the natural form of the wrist, was more ergonomic and so more comfortable than the round and square designs of the time.

This particular example was created under Cartier's "New Special Order" program, which has been put on pause as of this year. The watch is part of a set of three, which may be unique in their respective configurations. It pairs a platinum case with an eggshell-coloured dial, and features a ruby, rather than sapphire cabochon set in the crown.

The watch is heavily inspired by the London-made pieces from the 1960s, as evidenced by the elongated exploding Roman numerals and the lack of a chemin-de-fer. Where some examples still leave a border of negative space around the numerals, these stretch out to fill the entire dial, extending to the very edges. Simple blue hands complete the elegant set up as seen under the curved crystal.

The high polish on the watch face is repeated in the crisp chamfered edges where the case meets the wrist. In profile the horizontal satination is punctuated with the polished screws of the case as well as those that secure the pins in the lugs. The caseback, sitting flush with case, and following its curvature, is evenly satinated and engraved with the brand mark, country of origin and reference number. The engraving mcanique references the manual-wind calibre inside.

The watch is powered by the manually wound calibre 8971 MC, an ultra-thin calibre based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 846. This connection has historical parallels, as the calibre 123 used in the original 1921 Tank Cintre was produced by Jaeger, thanks to the special relationship between Edmund Jaeger and Louis Cartier.

First delivered in 2023, the watch is still covered by the original warranty from Cartier.

Closer look

Condition

This Cartier Tank Cintre is in excellent overall condition. Light superficial marks are found throughout the case, consistent with light wear, and only on the very surface of the material. The London-themed dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. All engravings and hallmarks on the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man as well as the remaining duration of the manufacturer warranty from Cartier.