This limited edition Tank Cintre* is one of the most desirable iterations of the line, thanks to the "exploding" Arabic numerals found on the dial. Keeping more strictly to its vintage roots in terms of size, the design of the dial is also reminiscent of the "Astaire" Cintre, making this a fascinating example for collectors seeking a more classic version of the Cintre.

Released in 1921, the Tank Cintre has an extraordinary history and was first conceived in the Paris branch of the Cartier. Instantly recognisable from its curved design and elongated shape, the Tank Cintre wraps comfortably around the wrist, and a great deal of diversity can be found in the model, ranging from font, size of numerals, thickness of case, or even the style of screws.

This example is alimited edition piece, of which only 150 were made. The watch features Arabic numerals that "explode" outwards and fill the dial in an eye-catching way. This makes it reminiscent of the "Fred Astaire" Cintre, an example that is similar, but has painted radium on the dial in an Art Deco-style rather than the sleek black numerals found here. In keeping with the vintage theme, the watch is just 46 x 23mm in diameter and 7.5mm in thickness, making it smaller than the 100th anniversary Cintre reissue, and closer to the original Cintre proportions. Additionally, the dial features the signature railroad track design that has been elongated to complement the case shape, as well as blued steel hands. A sapphire cabochon is set into the crown.

The design of the Cintre was undoubtedly influenced by the era in which it was born, the Roaring Twenties. This is evident in the dramatic lines of the Cintre, which captured the glamour and exuberance of the time, coupled with an embracing of Art Deco design principles. Supposedly invented in an attempt to convert wristwatch sceptics of the period, the curved case felt distinctly more comfortable and natural to wear compared to the other round and square designs.

The watch is powered by the 8780 MC, an ultra-thin calibre based off an bauche, the JLC 849. This is a connection that has historical parallels, as the calibre 123 used in the original 1921 Tank Cintre was produced by Jaeger, thanks to the special relationship that Edmund Jaeger had with Louis Cartier. It is said that the extreme curve of the Cintre was only made possible thanks to Jaeger developing an especially thin rectangular movement that could fit inside of the case.

Closer look

Condition

This Cartier Tank Cintre is in very good overall condition. Light superficial marks are found on the case, more specifically on the lower left lug, though only on the extreme surface of the material. The dial, hands, and cabochon crown are free from any signs of imperfection. The hallmarks and engravings on the caseback and deployant clasp are crisp and well defined. The watch was fully serviced in 2021 by authorised retailer Bucherer.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.