Believed to be limited to 28 pieces, this Roger Dubuis Sympathie S37is perhaps one of the most pared back executions of the watchmaker's distinctive Sympathie design.It combines a white gold case with a glossy black dial, powered by a practical automatic movement, based on the high-quality Lemania 8810 bauche.

The origin of Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis started his career at , in the late 1950s,where hespent close to a decade in the after-sales department, repairing and caring for the brand's watches, including their prestigious chronographs. Shortly thereafter, he integratedPatek Philippe's complications department, where he has the opportunity to work ongongs, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, among others. His time there coincided with the production of some of the manufacture's most sought-after, complicated models - from the ref. 2499 to the - which Dubuis himself had the opportunity to work on.

Dubuis' enthusiasm for watchmaking was such that, whenhe had finished working a full day at the atelier, he would go home and work on repairingwatches for private clients, auction houses and dealersaround Geneva.In the '80s, he left Patek Philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself fully to the restoration of pieces from the past.In 1995, following a partnership with businessman Carlos Dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand.

The first Roger Dubuis watches were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking that Patek Philippeembodied, while having more stylistic flair. Dubuis' attempt to rival Patek Philippe themselves was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to designing deployante buckles. In particular, the Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of old, according to Mr Dubuis.

The Unconventional Sympathie

Roger Dubuis' watchmakingcombined traditionaltechniques and aestheticswith a more contemporary approach. Perhaps more than any other, theSympathie design speaks to this forward-thinking approach. Neither round nor square, the Sympathie case design balances the two different shapes, complemented by a stepped bezel and curved,elongated lugs. In an industry where case shapesgenerally follow quite a narrow blueprint - either round, rectangularor square - the brand put forwards a genuinelyinnovative design.

According to Roger Dubuis,the basic form was suggested by a respected casemaker in the Valle de Joux, having later been refined by Dubuis and Dias.This unique silhouette was used across several ofthe watchmaker's earliest pieces, from his chronographs to his perpetual calendars.Traditionally, it isunderstood that each variant of theSympathieseries was limited to 28 pieces. According to Dias,the initial intention was actually limit eachseries to25. However, following the suggestion of a collectors based in Asia- where the number 8is consideredto bring good luck - the number 28 was chosen instead.

The Design

This time-onlypiece is perhaps the purest incarnation of the Sympathie design, paring it back to its most essential components. With the design being available in34mm and 37mm, usually in white or rose gold, this 37mm white gold version also stands out as perhaps the most contemporary execution of the idea.

It features a glossyblack dial, with applied hour markers and Roman numerals.The white minute track and silver minute plots form an appealing contrast against the deep black surface, helping with overall legibility. Thedauphine hands are sharply finished, creating an appealing balance between the two different portions of the hand.

The case is very distinct with its polished, stepped concave bezel and brushed elongated lugs. When viewed from the side, the mid-case and lugs feature a polished finish, a subtlenod to vintage dress watches from the past.The three-piececase construction and distinctive shape gives the watch a larger presence on the wrist than the 37mm diameter would usually suggest.

The movement

The watch is poweredby the Calibre RD 57,based on aLemania 8810 bauche. One of the highest quality base automatic movements available at the time, the Lemania 8810 was also used for the brand's perpetual calendar, as well as beingintegrated by other watchmakers of the time, such as Daniel Roth.

The movement bears the Seal of Geneva and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself.At the time of production, it was onlyPatek Philippe movements that carried the Geneva Seal,hencewhy Dubuis felt that it was crucial to have the same hallmark of quality. The sealfocuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.

The movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 25-jewel, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and a swan-neck micrometer regulator.As indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, thismovement was tested for accuracy at theBesanon Observatory,setting far moreexacting standards than a test from the Contrle Officiel Suisse des Chronomtres (COSC).

To find out more about the earliest days of the watchmaker, you can read our article on .

Closer look