This earlySympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronograph (Ref. S37) white gold, chronometer-graded watch is one of the earlier pieces created by the legendary watchmaker, after . It has aglossy, off-whitelacquer dial and the movement was regulated by M. Roger Dubuis himself.

Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis' career started in atypical watchmaker's fashion - learning his craft at large manufactures,including . These formative years are clearly reflected in the style of this Sympathie Perpetual CalendarChronographwatch, made alongside the Hommage Series. Inspired by classics such as the Patek Philippe's Ref. 130, the Sympathie offers a different take on this classical styling, with a distinctive angular case and elongated lugs.

It is understood that for each variant in the series, there were no more than 28 examples made. Each was chronometer-graded from the Besanon Observatory. One of the earlier pieces created by the legendary watchmaker, after establishing his own brand in 1995, they're now highly collectable.

The complication

According to Mr Dubuis himself, he started working on his first complication in the late 1980s - a perpetual calendar module with retrograde displays. For several years, Roger Dubuis worked on the complication with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht(founder of respective complications specialist Agenhor), for Harry Winston, who announced their own version of the Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar at Baselworld, in 1989. It was the first double retrograde perpetual calendar, andRoger Dubuislatermade the same perpetual module thesignature complication of his brand. The Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is one of the quintessential Roger Dubuis watches of the era, powered by the Lemania cal. 2310 (as with Patek Philippes version of the same, except the Roger Dubuis is bi-retrograde).

The design is that of a two-register chronograph,with an off-white, lacquer dial. Its painted withblack, stylised fonts and red minute markers, which add a nicecontrast against the dial. The minute and hour hands are faceted gold, with blued chronograph, 30-minute counter and skeletonised date hands. Two arcs are visible on the dial at 3 and 9 oclock, showing the day and date, respectively. The months at 12 o'clock are separated into quarters to indicate the leap year cycle. The 37mm square case is very distinct, featuring an array of polished and brushed surfaces, with a stepped-bezel, elongated, polished lugs and oversized screw attachments.

The Movement

The watch is powered by the Cal. RD5632(based on the Lemania 2310), bearing the Seal of Geneva. The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 25 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator.

The Set

This Sympathie Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronographis accompanied by itsoriginal box, papers, Besanon Chronometer Certificate, additional solid caseback, setting pin and hangtags. It comes on our stone greygrainedcalfskin strap, with a white goldRoger Dubuisdeployante buckle.

Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.

Closer look