Part of the neo-vintage movement of the 1990s, this Audemars Piguet Star Wheel reinvents a 17th-century method of telling time. With its intriguing and appealing design, the revival of this concept has had a strong influence on other watchmakers since.
A playful and highly unconventional watch when it comes to displaying time, this Audemars Piguet Star Wheel makes use of a wandering-hours function that demands a second take. With the model having been more commonly produced in yellow gold, this platinum variant stands out for its clean aesthetic and rarity. The way in which the platinum case, white gold guilloch dial and exposed mechanics blend effortlessly into one another makes this our favourite variant of this unconventional design.
The Star Wheel displays time via three sapphire disks with printed hours, which rotate on a centre pivot, where usually the hour and minute hands are attached. The name of the watch is derived from the star-shaped wheels which connect the sapphire disks to this rotating centre ring. The hours on the disks point to the minutes on a 120-degree sector, gliding over them over the course of an hour. The rotating ring turns 360 degrees (one full turn) in 3 hours. While not quite a jump-hour watch, the Star Wheel has a satisfying mechanical feature: the sapphire disks jump into position right before sliding over the minutes track.
The dial features endless absorbing details, from the subtle guilloch found on the lower portion of the dial, to the smooth finish of the minute track. The openworked mechanics in the centre, which are beautifully hand-finished with angling and polishing, offer a rich interplay of textures. Additionally, the crisp Arabic numerals on the clear sapphire disks give the appearance that they are floating above the dial, further contributing to the whimsical nature of the piece.
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Closer look
Brand: | Audemars Piguet |
Model: | Star Wheel reference 25720PT |
Movement: | Mechanical automatic AP calibre 2224/2812 |
Functions: | Hours, minutes |
Case material: | Platinum |
Case diameter: | 36mm |
Crystal: | Sapphire front and back |
Strap: | Blue textured leather strap, Audemars Piguet black alligator strap, Audemars Piguet platinum buckle |
Lug width: | 20x16mm |
Year: | Circa 1996 |
Box & papers: | Box |
This Audemars Piguet Star Wheel is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear. There are some more noticeable marks on the bezel, on the left-hand size of the case and on the side of the bottom right lug and on the caseback at 11 oclock. Asmall blemish can also be seen on the minute track above the 20th minute division.The hallmarks and engravings remain crisp and well defined.
The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.