This Grald Genta Perpetual Calendar is an intriguing early piece from the manufacture, as suggested by the lowercase signature found printed on the moonphase. Bearing Genta's favoured octogonal shape, the watch is an excellent representative of the designer's prolific and visionary body of work, and is an excellent, if lesser-known addition to a collection focused on neo-vintage perpetual calendars.

Grald Genta is a designer that needs little introduction to those in the watch world. Perhaps most famous for designing the Royal Oak and Nautilus pieces for Audemars Piguet and Patek Philippe respectively, Genta's designs also included the Universal Geneve Polerouter, the IWC Ingenieur, and the Seiko Locomotive. The last piece pays tribute to some of his most successful designs, and Genta had a very close relationship with the brand's president, Reijiro Hattori.

Genta and Hattori were so close that Hattori suggested that the designer should branch out on his own, lighting the spark that would later become the Grald Genta brand. As Evelyne Genta recalls, Seiko once advertised a Genta-designed watch as having been produced by the same person who was behind the Royal Oak. In those days and we go back a long, long time Audemars Piguet took offence at that and they wrote a rude letter to the Japanese, she says. You dont write letters to the Japanese, so they said to my husband, Make your own brand. This would go on to become the Gerald Genta brand, which this perpetual calendar falls under.

Once Genta had opened his own manufacture in 1969, starting with just seven people and growing to 250 at its height, they were soon making their own models while also producing pieces, such as the Cartier Pasha, for other brands. The Genta-branded pieces of this time demonstrate his real passion for complications and classical horology. According to Evelyne, it was the first brand to reintroduce perpetual calendars after the Quartz Crisis; the same with retrogrades, minute repeaters and grand sonneries.

It comes as no surprise that the octagon, Genta's favourite shape, is a central feature of the case in this instance, with slight nautical influences, as can be seen from the ship's wheel-style ridges. The dial of this piece is openworked, giving the wearer a glimpse into the complex workings of this perpetual calendar. The sub-dials are laid out in an intuitive manner, with month, date, and day indications at 3, 6 and 9 o'clock respectively. A leap year indicator is placed in the month sub-dial, with cutouts in the shape of a stylised cross. A minimalistic, modern moonphase sits at 12 o'clock, made out of lapis lazuli and with the 'grald genta' signature printed at the top of the sub-dial. It is generally understood that the signature stylised with a lowercase 'g' came from an earlier time of production.

Turning the watch over reveals the automatic calibre GA1 1303, an ornately decorated movement with wheels, bridges, and other components all finished to a high standard. At 35mm, the watch is on the smaller side, in keeping with its neo-vintage origins, and sits comfortably on the wrist.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Gerald Genta Perpetual Calendar will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Grald Genta Perpetual Calendar is in good condition overall. Light marks are found throughout the case and bezel, more specifically on the screw-down caseback, where imperfections are found. The hallmarks and engravings have faded over time, though they are partially visible. The open worked dial, hands, and highly decorated movement are free from any signs of imperfection.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.