This Quantime Perpetuel reference 25654* represents an effort by Audemars Piguet to combine one of their most innovative movements and disruptive designs from the 20th century. In combination, their ultra-thin, automatic perpetual calendar and angular Royal Oak helped the manufacture weather the aftermath of the Quartz Crisis, making this combination as striking as it is historically important.

In 1978, the Audemars Piguet Quantime Perptuel Royal Oak was launched, and held the title for the worlds thinnest automatic perpetual calendar. Just a few years later, the manufacture chose to combine this innovative movement with their iconic Royal Oak cases. In 1983, they released the reference 5554, which is also designated as the reference 25554. This reference 25654 can be considered a first series example, as it was introduced in a subsequent iteration of the concept, featuring the same pared back aesthetic as the original design. Only 800 examples of the reference 25654 were produced between 1983 and 1998, limited to just 422 in yellow gold.

At the time, the combination of the sporty, Royal Oak case and complicated perpetual calendar movement was an unusual, forward-thinking approach by the brand, combining luxury with one of its most utilitarian pieces. In recent years, the Royal Oak Quantime Perptuel has since been the canvas on which Audemars Piguet have experimented and redefined its perpetual calendars, introducing various unique interpretations. This reference 25654 represents one of the first steps in this ongoing legacy.

The layout of the dial includes all the traditional indications of a perpetual calendar, but also features stick hands, which are rarely found in Royal Oak watches. The sub-dials are slightly recessed, giving the dial greater depth and texture. Additionally, the dial displays the "Audemars Piguet" signature in small lettering, which is only found on the earlier examples of the reference 25654, before the brand adopted its modern signature style.

Meanwhile, the polished screws, bezel and case edges provide a distinct contrast with the brushed surface of the case and bracelet. The watch possesses its original unsigned crown, white gold clasp and clasp cover with the correct "AP" signature. Furthermore, this Quantime Perpetuel Automatique is powered by the Caliber 2120/2800, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultres legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 movement. The Caliber 2120 was an initial project of Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

Closer look

This Audemars Piguet Quantime Perptuel Royal Oak is in good condition overall. Little signs of wear can be found on the case and bracelet, likely due to previous polishing, to a high standard showing the correct polished and brushed finishing. The case back and clasp show crisp and well-defined hallmarks and engravings.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.