This Audemars Piguet Royal OakDual Time 25730BAisan unusual combination of the iconicRoyal Oakdesign and a seldom seen complication. The Dual Time 25730BAremains one of the few Royal Oak references to house this practical complication, which undoubtedly proves itself useful on a daily basis. Theyellow gold case, matched with a contrasting black dial, makes this example all the more appealing.

The first Royal Oak Dual Time

Having first developed the dual time functionality for an earlier reference,Audemars Piguet decidedto marrythis practicalcomplication with their increasingly popular Royal Oak silhouette in 1992.Sized at 36mm, theDual Time 25730BAwas part of an effort from Audemars Piguet to bring Genta's original sketch to a wider audience, through a range of sizes and complications.

As listed in Audemars Piguet's Extract from the Archives, which accompanies this watch,this particular 25730BAwas registered in November 1992, suggesting it could be one of the earliest examples of the reference produced. Supporting this, the piece also bears a case number below 10, as indicated by the engraving on the caseback in the "N.00X" format.Produced for only a handful of years, the reference was eventually discontinuedaround the turn of the century, with few examples havingappeared publicly since.

Featuring a date, dual-time and power reserve functionality, the Dual Time remains one of the most complicated mid-sizeRoyal Oak's in the manufacture'scatalogue.Bearingsome resemblance to the dial layout of Patek Philippe's, thisreference 25730BA retains legibility and balance, despite the wealth of information displayed.

An unusual dial

The dial of thisRoyal Oak 25730BA is rendered in a matte black colour, which wonderfully complementsthe yellow gold case and bracelet. Not typically used within the Royal Oak model, the black dial is deep and legible, enhancing the varied reflections and textures of the yellow gold case. A common colour combination in the world of design at large, the decision to bring together these two different tones certainly adds to the visual distinctiveness of this piece.

The dialintegrates a range of different finishing techniques, from the smooth chapter ring and complication sub-dials, to the more traditionalPetite Tapisserie pattern found in the centre. This pattern is a nod to the manufacture's earliest pieces, with newer versions of the Royal Oak having since adopted the bolder Tapisserie Evolutive dial pattern, which is less faithful to the original design.

The different complications are displayed throughout, withthe date function at 2 o'clock, thesecond timezone at 6 o'clock, and the power reserve indication at 9 o'clock.The powdery gold colour of the printed text on the dial - from thenumerals for the date to the minute track - adds further warmth to the overall design and echoes the tone of the case and bracelet.

Usually placed in prime position, in this case, the "Audemars Piguet" signature is discretely nestled within the second timezone indicator at 6 o'clock, yet again bringing coherence to the overall display.Theapplied APlogo and crisp, lume-filled indices further contrast the deep, black dial.Over time, the lume has faded to a creamy tone, which enhancesthevintage aesthetic of this piece.

A Yellow Gold Royal Oak

An all-gold Royal Oak is a bit of aparadox. The Royal Oak was originally conceivedas a luxury steel watch, yet its design and proportions render wonderfully when executed in yellow gold. Usually more susceptible to wear than its stainless steel equivalent, this 25730BA(with the BA standing for yellow gold) is extremelywell-preserved, retainingits original lines, crisp hallmarks and a thick case.

At 36mm in diameter, and only 8mm thick, this Royal Oak case is a beautiful twist of perspectives and size. Thanks to the slim profile of the case and bracelet, the ref. 25730BAhugs the wrist, in a way that is both supremely comfortable, yet distinctively elegant.Collectors have noticed that on account of the unique case shape of the Royal Oak, the mid-size versions wear much larger on the wrist than their dimensions would suggest.

This 25730BA comes with its original yellow bracelet and AP signed clasp cover. Thehollow clasp itself, which is found on all Royal Oak watches produced in the early 90s, is made out of yellow gold, as is confirmed by the hallmarks on the back. This example also features the correct unsigned crown, which one should expect to find on the models from this period.

The Movement

This Royal Oak Day Date 25730BA is powered by the self-winding calibre 2229-2845, based on a Jaeger LeCoultre bauche. This automatic calibre features54 working jewels andhas an oscillating weight mounted on an unlubricated ceramic ball bearing, with one segment of the weight made out of 21-carat gold.

The Set

This Audemars Piguet Royal Oak 25730BAcomes with an Extract from the Archives.

Closer look