Paul Gerber is perhaps best known for his work on the MIH watch as well as on the Superbia Humanitatis with Franck Muller, named the most complicated wristwatch ever created in 2005. This Retro Twin 157 is technically accomplished, combining two platinum rotors in the movement, an arrangement that Gerber holds a patent for. Meanwhile, the aesthetics of the dial are simple yet elegant, demonstrating his skill in finishing. Such an array of artisanal watchmaking elements are difficult to find at Paul Gerber's price level.

Paul Gerbers rich career is an example of going one's own way. Unafraid to pursue unusual concepts and with a clear focus on innovation, his work is technical, characterful, and not always given the recognition it deserves from the mainstream. Born in Bern, Switzerland, Gerber would move to Zurich after achieving his watchmaking diploma to open his own restoration workshop. One of the first independent watchmakers, he established his independent brand in 1976, to create original pieces and explore the limits of his ideas. He has won several awards, including the 2007 Gaa Prize. Today, he is moving into semi-retirement, leaving behind a significant body of work. Gerber is not just a watchmaker, he is also an educator who works closely with younger watchmakers as a mentor, and is especially known for his knowledge and generosity.

Gerbers work covers a broad spectrum, demonstrating his wide-ranging interests. Some notable examples include the MIH watch made for the Muse Internationale de lHorlogerie, a minimalist piece featuring a simple annual calendar complication; to the Superbia Humanitatis, featured in the 2005 Guinness World Book of Records as the most complicated wristwatch ever created, which Gerber worked on with Franck Muller, who had added more complications to an already complicated Louis-Elysee Piguet movement.

This Retro Twin 157 was introduced in 2001. The watch demonstrated Gerbers vision for a double-rotor system, the Paul Gerber 15, which is based on an extensively modified Peseux 7001 ebauche, and allows the watch to function as an automatic piece. This system is entirely unique, and Gerber holds a patent for it. The two platinum rotors are part of a modular system, with its own plate and bridge. A central coupling wheel is used to ensure that the rotors do not collide, and in turn, a jig secures the rotors to their wheels. The bridges themselves have a rather whimsical shape and are decorated with wave-style engravings. As a whole, the movement is decorated to an excellent standards, a delicate Ctes de Genve pattern and perlage.

The dial falls somewhere between classical and modern aesthetics, with an engine-turned curved pattern throughout the watch face, a brushed chapter ring with applied Arabic numerals in black, and a subtle contrast between dark and light grey areas. On the whole, the dial is fairly minimal, with a simple cartouche printed with "Paul Gerber - Zurich". A retrograde seconds is placed in the lower half of the dial with a small cartouche directly beneath the chapter ring, stating "Retro Twin".

The case is 36mm in diameter, in keeping with a smaller vintage size. It is double stepped on the main body, and this pattern is repeated with the lugs, which also feature a slim, tapered appearance, and are connected by spring bars. Overall, the piece is an excellent find for any collector looking to add a piece of independent watchmaking created by a celebrated but underrated maker, and who can appreciate the personality and ingenuity behind such a watch.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Paul Gerber Retro Twin will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Paul Gerber Retro Twin 157 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks consistent with minimal wear over time. The dial, hands, and movement have been well preserved. All engravings and hallmarks on the case back, buckle, and between the lugs at 6 o'clock are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man as well as the remaining duration of the manufacturer warranty from Paul Gerber.