This Daniel Roth steel Tourbillon is a rare example of only 20 pieces made in stainless steel, commissioned for Roberto Carlotti, the distributor for Daniel Roth in Italy. The tourbillon was often a rite of passage for independent watchmakers, and when viewed in combination with the steel case, the watch represents an important period during Roths independent watchmaking career.

Often considered a rite of passage for independent watchmakers looking to prove themselves, this Tourbillon certainly showcases Roth's horological ability and aesthetic refinement. Trained at Audemars Piguet and having played a significant role the resuscitation of Breguet, Roth offered a creative take on traditional, Breguet-inspired styling, of which this piece is an enduring testament. He designed his double-faced Tourbillon, the reference C187 in 1988, and released it in the following year, as a way to announce his newly founded independence.

As you would expect, these tourbillons were available in yellow, rose, and white gold, with a few platinum pieces having equally emerged. However, rather unusually, twenty pieces of this Tourbillon 2187 were also produced in stainless steel. These were made on the request of Roberto Carlotti, the distributor for Daniel Roth in Italy. At the time, Italian collectors had a propensity for steel watches, because of the versatility and wearability of the metal, a taste which was likely born out of their habit for collecting vintage timepieces. The unusual combination of a tourbillon and stainless-steel case, as well as the limited production number, has made these twenty pieces particularly sought-after amongst early Roth collectors.

This stainless-steel Tourbillon features many of Roths signature design cues, such as the double ellipse case and sharply executed guilloche. Furthermore, Roths Tourbillon integrates a triple-armed seconds hand, where three blued steel hands of varying length, glide over three different seconds registers. Despite being powered by the same Lemania bauche found in the pieces he created whilst at Breguet, his own Tourbillon is decidedly more adventurous.

As Roth worked very closely with Lemania during his time at Breguet, it comes as no surprise that that movement that powers this watch is based off the Lemania 387 bauche. Its understood that the design for the Lemania 387 calibre came from Roth, with Nouvelle Lemania offering the skills and tools to create a working prototype and then serially produce the movement. Therefore, whilst Roths Tourbillon was technically based on a Lemania bauche, it is understood that he was actively involved in its design.

Closer look

Condition

This Daniel Roth steel Tourbillion 2187 is in very good overall condition. Superficial marks can be found on the case, most notably on the bezel at the 6 oclock position relative with minimal wear. The pinstriped textured dials and blued steel hands showing no signs of age. The case and lugs remaining sharp and well defined.