An elegant example of the Urban Jrgensen Reference 8, which features the 37mm case in yellow gold, a dial adorned with two textures of guilloche, and more unusually seen yellow gold baton numerals. Powering it is the finely finished self-winding calibre 1160, based on an F. Piguet ebauche.

Urban Jrgensenhas a rich history that goes back to the late 18th century. The manufactures namesake, Urban Jrgensen (1776-1830), along with his father Jrgen Jrgensen, have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to Denmark. Shortly after the birth of his son Urban in 1776, the senior Jrgensen moved to Le Locle in Switzerland to work with Jacques-Frdric Houriet, laying the foundations for a Danish-Swiss connection which persevered well into the late 20th century.

Peter Baumberger acquired the brand in 1976 and together with master English watchmaker Derek Pratt, set about bringing the Urban Jrgensen name and the legacy of elegant and complicated timepieces it conjures to the modern era. Pratt of course is one of the most accomplished watchmakers of the 20th century and had long collaborated with the late Dr George Daniels. The two shared ideas and collaborated on more than one occasion. Worth noting is the contribution of a young Kari Voutilainen during these years. He is the current chief executive officer leading the renewed direction of the brand.

The 37mm case wears the brands characteristic rounded, organic form marked by the stepped case, its edges softened gently as if by time. While the Reference 8 was also created in rose gold and platinum, the yellow gold this example is crafted from is perhaps best suited to the classicality of the design. The crown, slightly recessed into the midcase, is perfectly ergonomic. The form of the short, teardrop lugs serve to keep the visual footprint compact and classical. In the modern context, it is an aesthetic cue most associated with the work of Voutilainen, and serves as reminder of his time as a young watchmaker working with Urban Jrgensen.

The dial is equally classical, while enriched by several details that were the brands hallmarks. Saut piqu rims separate the elements of the watch, all the way down from the rehaut to the central portion that is decorated with petit Clous de Paris engine turning.This example is further distinguished by the applied baton markers in gold as opposed to the typical Roman numerals an unusual touch that complements the case.

Meanwhile, the blue heat-hued hands are a traditional touch, and the hour hand is particularly noteworthy it is observatoire-style and features a gold insert. This detail is beautifully finished, with the bevelling on the inside done to a mirror sheen. Such attention is paid to the gold bases that secure the hands to the cannon pinion. They feature countersinks and bevelled edges that are high polished. The minutes hand is simple and of the sort that brings to mind marine chronometres. The seconds hand, which traverses a register decorated with basket weave guilloche, also has a polished gold base.

Beneath the circular grained closed caseback lies the self-winding calibre 1160, based on an F. Piguet bauche. It features a yellow gold rotor adorned with barleycorn guilloche interrupted only with the engravings detailing the brand logo and 21k precious metal hallmark. The bridges underneath the rotor are decorated with Ctes de Genve, with the brand mark, serial number, jewel count (31), position of adjustment (five, as is the chronometre standard) and historic place of manufacture Copenhagen engraved in gold. The watch features a free-sprung balance and the mainspring offers around 60 hours of autonomy.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Urban Jrgensen Reference 8 will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Urban Jrgensen Reference 8 is in very good overall condition. The case and lugs appear unpolished with superficial marks throughout, more specifically on the bezel and solid caseback, the latter showing as deeper scratches in harsh photography light. There are also smaller imperfections on the bezel visible through a loupe. The dial with baton indexes shows light signs of age, with the hands and movement remaining free from any signs of imperfections. Between the lugs at six o'clock and on the deployment clasp, the hallmarks remain crisp and well defined.

The watch was fully serviced by Urban Jurgensen in 2025. Whilst the case was left unpolished, a complimentary case refurbishment can be carried out by the brand at the buyer's request.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by Urban Jrgensen in February 2025 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.