This Urban Jrgensen Reference 8* from the turn of the millennium elegantly captures the early era of the brands aesthetic. Its understated yet attractive 37mm yellow gold case is paired with blue printed Roman hour markers and features a discreet date aperture. It is powered by a beautifully decorated self-winding COSC-certified calibre that offers 60 hours of reserve. According to the paperwork, the watch is from the late 90s, placing it within the Baumberger-Pratt era.

The Urban Jrgensen name dates back to the late 18th century, when the manufactures namesake, Urban Jrgensen (1776-1830), joined his father Jrgen Jrgensen, travelling from Cophenhagen to Neuchatel, to study watchmaking. There, the younger Jrgensens watchmaking was influenced by the works of masters such as Jacques-Frdric Houriet, Abraham-Louis Breguet and John Arnold. Setting up part of his operation in Switzerland and the other half in his home country, he is credited with bringing watchmaking tradition to Denmark.

In 1985, more than a century and a half after the Jrgensens death, Peter Baumberger acquired the rights to the brand and, together with master English horologist Derek Pratt, and later help from a young Kari Voutilainen, set about carrying forward the legacy of elegant and complicated timepieces. The reborn brands emphasis on chronometry and movement aesthetics is perfectly embodied in the Reference 8. This example is a relatively early piece, as indicated by its paperwork.

Made around the turn of the millennium, the watch was offered in platinum and rose gold, as well as the yellow gold that this particular examples 37mm case is crafted from. Its rounded bezel, together with the case, gives it a distinctly classical, double-stepped countenance. The rounded midcase and caseback are pebble-like in their forms. The crown, which is slightly recessed into the midcase, is beautifully integrated while also perfectly ergonomic. The form of the short, teardrop-shaped lugs serves as a reminder of Voutilainens influences when he set up his independent manufacture.

Equally classical is the dial, with the printed blue chapter of minute plots and Roman hour markers with a saut piqu ring separating the two. In fact, this relief also delineates the inner section of the dial, which is adorned with Clous de Paris guilloch. The subsidiary seconds register, which has a brushed rim with blue printed second plots, features a centre decorated with a basket weave pattern. Meanwhile, the observatoire-style hands in the Reference 8 have a golden aperture. Nestled within the seconds sub-dial is a date aperture, a subtle addition that fits in seamlessly with the rest of the watch's aesthetics.

This watch also benefits from an exhibition caseback, another option offered when the Reference 8 was part of Urban Jrgensens catalogue. Through this, the rich texture of the grain dorge circulaire on the full gold winding rotor is visible. This powers a calibre that is certified a chronometre by COSC. When adequately wound, the movement enjoys 60 hours of autonomy. The movement, which has a free-sprung balance, is adjusted to five positions, with bridges decorated with Ctes de Genve and brand and technical details engraved in gold.

Closer look

Condition

This Urban Jrgensen Reference 8 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show extremely light signs of wear. The engine turned dial and hands are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. The hallmarks/engravings located between the lugs and buckle are legible and present.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.