The Urban Jrgensen Reference 1 was the first wristwatch produced during the revival of the brand in the 1980s, and is a wonderful representation of their aesthetics, with a classically styled dial and subtle blue features, yet a fairly modern size of 39mm. Only 186 watches were produced for this reference between 1982 and 1986, with 15 later made in platinum.

Urban Jrgensen has a rich and varied history, dating back to the late 18th century. The manufactures namesake, Urban Jrgensen (1776-1830), along with his father, Jrgen Jrgensen, have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to Denmark. Shortly after the birth of his son in 1776, Jrgen Jrgensen moved to Le Locle in Switzerland to work with Jacques-Frdric Houriet, laying the foundations for a Danish-Swiss connection that still exists over 240 years later.

Peter Baumberger acquired the brand between the years of 1979 and 1985, and together with master English horologist Derek Pratt, they set about carrying forward a legacy of elegant and complicated timepieces, while pioneering concepts of performance, stability, and movement aesthetics. TheReference 1 epitomises this period of Urban Jrgensens history in the best way, bringing together an impressive calendar chronograph movement, based on a highly refined Zenith El Primero calibre, with balanced aesthetics and a hand-finished dial. In fact, many of the dials throughout this period were engine-turned by Pratt himself.

Despite being among the most accomplished independent watchmakers of the last century, Pratt remains largely unrecognised within the field. He was a long-standing friend of George Daniels, and it is believed that the pair used to have lengthy telephone discussions every Sunday morning, sharing ideas back and forth between themselves, while also working closely together on more than one occasion.

The layout of the Reference 1 dial is fairly straightforward, despite the number of indications, with two light-coloured date discs placed directly above the chronograph sub-dials. A moonphase sits above 6 oclock, and a date aperture can be found between 4 and 5 oclock. In keeping with their traditional aesthetics, the dial has brushed silver chapter rings and an intricate hand-guilloche patterns, with Roman numerals. Meanwhile, the dial is signed Urban Jrgensen Copenhagen in a cartouche placed below the twelve oclock marker. The hour and minute hands are in yellow gold, as well as the subseconds. In a distinctive quirk, the sub-dials have alternate gold and blued hands, respectively, for improved readability and as an elegant design touch.

The watch is powered by the calibre 3019PHF, an automatic movement. Additionally, at 39mm, the watch is fairly large by neo-vintage standards, yet incredibly comfortable owing to the relatively svelte profile and modest teardrop lugs. The watch is accompanied by a charming booklet with illustrations that instruct the owner how to wind and set the piece.

The watch has recently been serviced by Urban Jrgensen. Today, the brand is helmed by Kari Voutilainen, in a return to its Scandinavian roots. Venla Voutilainen currently heads the Urban Jrgensen service center, where she is in charge of after sales service for watches sold under previous ownership.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Urban Jrgensen Reference 1 will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This Urban Jrgensen Reference 1 is in very good overall condition. The unpolished case and lugs show light superficial marks consistent with minimal wear over time. More specifically, there are marks on the lower portion of the bezel at the 5 and 7 o'clock positions, as well as light oxidation on the caseback. The engine-turned dial and hands are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. The hallmarks between the lugs at 12 o'clock and on the buckle are crisp and well defined.

The watch has just returned from a full mechanical service with Urban Jrgensen. A case refurbishment can be facilitated at the request and discretion of the buyer.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by Urban Jrgensen in March 2024 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.