This Patek Philippe 3820 combines a vintage-leaning case design with a striking golden dial, and the subtle addition of a Gbelin signature. The practice of double-signing watches stretches back several decades and imbues pieces such as this one with a sense of romance and intrigue

A Historic Lineage

First introduced in 1932, the Calatrava reference 96 was one of the earliest wristwatches ever released by Patek Philippe. The manufacture had just been purchased by Charles and Henri Stern, and this was the first model they unveiled, with the intention of breathing a new life into the Genevan brand.

Designed by David Penney, who was heavily influenced by the Bauhaus school of art, the Calatrava design favoured simplicity a significant departure from the excess of the Art Deco era. Meanwhile, the name "Calatrava" and the familiar Patek Philippe Calatrava Cross were styled after the medieval Order of Calatrava, an organisation of knights that originated in Spain. Looking back, this original design is considered by many as the ultimate blueprint for a time-only dress watch. Since its inception, the Calatrava has taken on many different forms, including with this reference 3820.

A Double Signed Example

The practice of double-signing watches stretches back quite a bit, with some of the most famous examples including from retailers like Tiffany, Beyer, and Asprey. The addition of a stamp with these retailers names gave credibility to the watchmakers, in an era when there was no brick-and-mortar representative for brands like Rolex or Patek Philippe just yet.

This reference 3820 has Gbelin stamped in capital letters just above the 6 oclock numeral, indicating the retailer from which it originated from. Based in the Swiss city of Lucerne, the company is responsible for helping spread the Patek Philippe name throughout eastern Switzerland, and primarily to the German-speaking world.

The Design

The design of this ref. 3820 is quintessentially classic, combining a gold case, with matte gold sheen on the dial, and gold Breguet-style numerals. The piece features a combination of brushed and polished surfaces, which creates a surprisingly rich interplay of textures that becomes apparent when light sweeps across it at different angles. The polished Breguet-style hands are balanced by a dotted minute track runs around the outermost section of the dial.

The crown features the signature Calatrava Cross, a motif repeated across the series, and to further add to the pieces classicism, it also features teardrop-shaped lugs, a common feature on vintage pieces. Thanks to its relatively small size, at 32mm in diameter, the piece retains its vintage roots and is both a restrained and archetypically traditional example.

The Movement

This Patek Philippe Ref. 3820 is powered by the calibre 177, a manually wound, ultra-thin movement first introduced in 1977. The movement was derived from the ultra-thin Frederic Piguet calibre 21 and has a thickness of only 1.77mm. The watch is fitted with 18 jewels, has a power reserve of 44 hours, and beats at approximately 3Hz.

The Set

This Patek Philippe Ref. 3820 is accompanied by its original leather box, leather folio and Certificate of Origin (stamped by the retailer, that also confirms that it was first sold in 1987).

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Ref.3820 will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Patek Philippe Calatrava 3820 is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.