With an intriguing cream-coloured dial and hand-turned guilloche dial, this Breguet reference 3330 is an excellent modern example that bears many of the design features consolidated during Daniel Roths time at the manufacture.

The rebirth of Breguet began in 1970, when brothers Jacques and Pierre Chaumet took over in the hopes of reinvigorating the brand and renewing the connection between the Breguet name and high-end watchmaking. Shortly thereafter, the brothers closed the French factory and moved production to the Valle de Joux in Switzerland, the epicentre of Swiss watchmaking.

In order to restore the brand to its former glory, Jacques and Pierre would need a Master Watchmaker to help. They approached Daniel Roth, whod demonstrated his talent over seven years working at Audemars Piguet, which hed joined as the only watchmaker who didnt come from Le Brassus, the brands historic home. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacture, though only after going back to school to further study Breguets archives and techniques.

This reference 3330 was created in the early 1990s, as evidenced by the closed caseback,cream dial, and the absence of a reference number on the caseback. Further to this, the dial also only features Swiss at the bottom of the hour chapter ring rather than Swiss Guilloch Main, as found on later pieces. Separately, the day and date indications on the watch are rendered against a light-yellow gold colour that matches the case, and notably, the day is in German.

Overall, the watch features many design cues that were cemented while Daniel Roth worked there, such as the engine-turned dials, coin case, and distinctive blued Breguet hands. Roths work within the Breguet archives can be seen from the fact that the piece is reminiscent of a Breguet pocket watch, integrating a traditional dial layout that was rather unconventional for the period. Upon examining the dial layout more closely, we see that the functions are separated, which can be seen from the day and date apertures at 10 and 2 respectively, while the dial features a beautifully hand-turned guilloch dial. The watch is powered by the calibre 502, which is based on the Frederic Piguet calibre 71.

Closer look

This Breguet Day Date reference 3330 is in very good condition overall, with a few superficial marks throughout consistent with minimal wear. The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.