Only available by special request, this Urban Jrgensen Reference 2 from 1989 features an unusual white gold case. The watch exhibits a balanced dial adorned with hand-turned guilloch, at a time when watchmaker Derek Pratt finished many of these. The perpetual calendar is powered by the Frdric Piguet calibre 71 topped with a module by that is proprietary to Urban Jrgensen. This example comes with its full set of box and paperwork as well as a copy of The Jurgensen Dynasty by John M. R. Knudsen.

Urban Jrgensenhas a rich history that goes back to the late 18th century. The manufactures namesake, Urban Jrgensen (1776-1830), along with his father Jrgen Jrgensen, have long been credited with introducing the watch industry to Denmark. Shortly after the birth of his son Urban in 1776, the senior Jrgensen moved to Le Locle in Switzerland to work with Jacques-Frdric Houriet, laying the foundations for a Danish-Swiss connection which persevered well into the late 20th century.

In more recent history, Peter Baumberger acquired the brand in 1976 and together with master English watchmaker Derek Pratt set about bringing the Urban Jrgensen name and the legacy of elegant and complicated timepieces it conjures to the modern era. Pratt of course is one of the most accomplished watchmakers of the 20th century and was a long-time collaborator of the late Dr George Daniels. Also worth noting is the contribution of a young Kari Voutilainen to the Urban Jrgensen brand during these early years. It is fitting that Voutilainen is the current chief executive officer charged with reviving the historic brand.

Starting in 1986, Urban Jrgensen produced the Reference 2 in a classical 38mm case and powered by the Frdric Piguet calibre 71, topped with a perpetual calendar module. It was significant as the first Urban Jrgensen reference to feature a perpetual calendar. The observatoire hands that would become a design mainstay were also first employed in the Reference 2. The dial is a canvas for Pratts skill with hand-turned guilloch, featuring two different patterns.

While around 175 examples of the Reference 2 are believed to have been produced with 50 examples in platinum and almost all of the rest in yellow and rose gold white gold was available exclusively by special order. The brand has confirmed that this watch is from 1989.

The white gold case is almost perfectly rounded, with this uninterrupted form extending to the stepped bezel. The closed, circular brushed caseback also meets the midcase in a similarly stepped fashion. The knurled crown is topped with the brand mark. Three sunken correctors on the midcase help manipulate the calendar functions. The lugs, with their teardrop profile, are soldered to the midcase. They are fitted with a black, alligator-grained leather strap with contrast blue stitching. The strap is secured by a simple, signed white gold pin buckle.

A thin chapter of minutes is separated from the Roman hours by a saut piqu rim. Both graduated chapters are achieved on satinated rims, as is the chapter for the subsidiary date register. The hour chapter is interrupted by the day and month display windows as well as the date complication. On the northern half of the dial, lining the semi-circular brand mark, lies the moonphase display. Set on a polished steel disc, heated till blue, are the shimmering gold-filled cut outs of the moon and stars.

The central portion features hobnail engine turning applied by Pratt using hand tools. For visual distinction, the watchmaker employs a basket weave pattern inside the subsidiary date register, with this decoration repeated on the partial covering of the moonphase display. The resulting effect is classical and refined.

Under the closed caseback lies the well decorated Calibre 71. The watch comes with a wooden inner box lined with ostrich leather as well as the outer box and warranty and instruction paperwork. Along with the set is a copy of The Jurgensen Dynasty by John M. R. Knudsen that chronicles the brands rich history.

This Reference 2 holds within its tidy proportions many details that make it important within the realm of Urban Jrgensen under Baumberger and Pratt. This example, made by special order in white gold, is all the more special.

Closer look

Condition

This Urban Jrgensen Ref. 2 is in excellent overall condition. Light superficial marks are found throughout the case from light wear, though only on the very surface of the material. This dial, hands, and movement have been well preserved. Between the lugs, and on the inside of the caseback, the hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.