This Quantime Perptuel 25749PT is inspired by the Art Deco Audemars Piguet reference 5514 from the 1940's, with only 31 examples thought to have been made in platinum. The ornamental, square case and ornately engraved manual movement, result in an uncommonly styled neo-vintage watch which captures some of the spirit of an earlier era.

The Audemars Piguet 25749PT bears many unusual traits. It is believed that only 31 were created in platinum, with around 38 in yellow gold. This particular example was made in January 1995, according to the archive extract. To begin with, the case is a rarely seen shape among the brand's Quantime Perptuel watches where a myriad of variation exists across round and rectangular designs. The sharp edges give the case a slim, angular shape that provides a framing effect for the dial, with the corners pointing inwards. At 27.5 x 27.5mm in diameter, the watch is reasonably small, although its shape produces a distinct presence on the wrist, more than it's size would suggest.

The dial integrates the traditional layout seen on most Audemars Piguet perpetual calendars. The sub-dial at 3 oclock shows the date, in a noticeably recessed sub-register, giving depth to the otherwise smooth silver dial. In a similar fashion, the days of the month are placed at 9 oclock, with the months of the year at 12. A moonphase indication is placed at six oclock, with graduations for the moon position just above. On the whole, the depth of the sub-dials and their light circular finish give the watch a further distinctive appearance on the wrist. Slim batons for index markers and silvered leaf-shaped hands finish off the overall look.

The movement is visible through the sapphire caseback, revealing another unusual feature the movement is beautifully engraved, an ornate series of scrolls found on each of the four corners of the baseplate, surrounding the circular calibre. This Quantime Perpetuel is powered by the manual-wind calibre 2003. The base movement, developed in conjunction with bauche maker Jaeger-LeCoultre, was first developed in 1946, remaining in production for half a century. On top of it, Audemars Piguet added their 2805 QP perpetual calendar module, giving the movement a total thickness of only 3.19mm.

Closer look

Condition

This Audemars Piguet Quantime Perptuel calendar is in good overall condition. The case and lugs show light signs of wear throughout, consistent with relative wear over time, and is likely unpolished. The matte-finished white dial shows light signs of wear and age on the subdials, consistent with perpetual calendars from the period. The manually wound, hand-engraved movement is free from any signs of imperfection. Between the lugs at six o'clock, on the caseback, and the pin buckle, the hallmarks and engravings are very crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by Audemars Piguet in November 2023 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.