In 1875, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet founded the Swiss watch manufacturing company Audemars Piguet in Le Brassus, Valle de Joux. In 1955, the brand began production of its first series of perpetual calendar wristwatches to feature a leap year indication. A specialist in the manufacture of complications since it was established, Audemars Piguet continued to produce a variety of high-quality perpetual calendars throughout the late 70s to the early 2000s, considered some of the most impressive of the modern era.
This rare platinum exampleref. PT25657perfectly illustrates why the Quantieme Perpetualseemsso under-appreciated. Understated both in styling and size - modest (by today's standards) at 36 mm - with aslim case matched by an ultra-thin, automaticperpetual calendar movement. The platinum case features a stepped bezel and short, down-tuned lugs, which work proportionately well together. On the reverse, the watch is features circular graining, along with finely-engraved markings.
The sub-dial at 3 o'clock shows the date, in a slightly recessed sub-register, giving depth to the otherwise smooth white dial. In a similar fashion, the days of the month are placed at 9 o'clock, with the months of the year at 12. Themoon-phase is placed at six o'clock, with graduation for moon age above. The white dial is further accented with applied index markers - corresponding harmoniously with Audemars Piguets stick hands. The index markers and hands are subtle in form, with excellent legibility against the white backdrop.
This Quantieme Perpetual Automatique is powered by the AP caliber 2120/2, derived from Jaeger-LeCoultres legendary ultra-thin JLC 920 calibre movement. The caliber 2120 was an initial project of Jaeger LeCoultre in 1967, funded and contributed by Audemars Piguet, and famous for its adoption by Audemars Piguet, Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin. The ultra-thin automatic 2120/2 calibre features 38 working jewels, Gyromax balance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The rotor is decorated with Genevan stripes and edged with 21-carat gold, to increase the oscillating mass. The AP calibre 2120 remains the thinnest full-rotor self-winding movement in the world, considered by many as one of the most technically refined wrist-watch movements ever made.
The watch comes as a full set, accompanied by its originalAudemars Piguet box, Certificate of Origin and literature and setting pin. It also comes with a period-correct, Audemars Piguet winding box. The watch was recently fully-serviced in 2017 by Audemars Piguet. It's fitted to one of our ,blue saffiano leatherstrap, as well as its original platinum tang buckle.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment.
Closer look
| Brand: | Audemars Piguet |
| Model: | QuantiemePerpetual Calendar Ref. PT25657 |
| Movement: | mechanical automatic AP Calibre 2120/2 |
| Functions: | perpetual calendar: moon-phase, month, date, day; hours,minutes |
| Features: | unrestored dial, serviced by AP (2017) |
| Case: | 36mm 950 platinum |
| Crystal: | sapphire |
| Strap: | blue saffiano strap with corresponding platinum tang buckle |
| Lug/buckle width: | |
| Year: | 1988 |
| Box & papers: | original box, Certificate of Origin, literature, original setting pin, period-correct AP winding box (to be delivered) |
This platinum perpetual calendar from Audemars Piguet remains in excellent vintage condition and was fully serviced by the brand, in 2017. It's accompanied by its original Audemars Piguet box and Certificate of Origin, product literature and setting pin. The period-correct winding box is currently receiving a replacement motor (NOS), prior to delivery. It is guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.
