Classic and restrained, this Patek Philippe perpetual calendar ref. 5039 is a descendant of the familiar 3940, though more rarely seen in white gold by comparison. Distinguished by a stylised hobnail pattern that runs around the bezel of the watch, the piece is a rare find for any collector looking for a perpetual calendar with a noteworthy characteristic.

The reference 5039 was produced approximately between the years 1994 to 2007, and is a direct descendant of the 3940, a watch that is perhaps the most iconic perpetual calendar of the modern era. The design focuses on balance with sub-dials placed at 3, 6, and 9 oclock respectively and more crucially, in a way that does not make the dial seem over-complicated, despite the highly complicated nature of the watch itself.

The bezel is the watchs most distinctive feature, as it features a stylised hobnail pattern. This gives the piece an added structural complexity, enclosing the dial in a textured cage that creates a delicate interplay with light and draws the eye to the functions. The sub-dial at three o'clock shows the leap-year counter and the months (in English), in a slightly recessed sub-register, giving depth to the otherwise lightly brushed, silver dial. In a similar fashion, the months and day/night indicators are placed at nine o'clock. The stunning gold moon-phase is found at six o'clock, with the days of the month surrounding.

Similarly, to its predecessor, the reference 3940, this Patek Philippe reference 5039 makes use of the calibre 240Q, the famed ultra-thin, automatic perpetual calendar movement. It can be seen through the sapphire caseback, highlighting the off-center 22k gold micro-rotor and the excellent hand finishing. The movement itself has been in use since 1970, and has been incorporated into in a number of Patek Philippes modern perpetual calendar lines.

At 36mm, the watch is a size that is reminiscent of vintage Patek Philippe references, further adding to its charm.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Perpetual Calendar Ref. 5039 will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Patek Philippe Ref. 5039G is in very good condition throughout. The case and lugs have virtually no signs of wear. The hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.

The watch was recently serviced by Patek Philippe in London and comes with the remainder of its servicing warranty from the brand, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.