First released in 1984, the Vacheron Constantin reference 43032* represented a bold move when viewed in the context of tumult of the Quartz Crisis that the Swiss watch industry was still in the midst of. The reference affords an almost unfettered glimpse into the inner workings of its perpetual calendar complication. This particular example from 2003, with a skeletonised ultra-thin automatic calibre paired with a 36mm platinum caseis as slim as it is elegant in its architecture.

Only a year after the production of the reference 43031, Vacheron Constantin introduced the 43032, distinguished from the original reference by its skeletonised design. By the brands estimates, around 150 skeletonised watches were produced in platinum, with 130 featuring white subdials, while only 20 wore blue subdials. A handful of examples were also produced with diamonds on the bezel or dial.

This example from 2003, features white subdials, that together with its 36mm platinum case give it a decidedly harmonious and understated appearance. The four subdials lend the face a visual symmetry that is as aesthetically pleasing as it is user-friendly. At 12 oclock is the month indicator while the subdial at 3 oclock displays the date. The register at 6 oclock features a moonphase display, together with the brand mark printed in black. The rich blue of the moonphase is crafted from lapis lazuli, giving the watch face vibrancy. The register at 9 oclock indicates the day of the week. All registers, barring the one at 6 oclock, are skeletonised and feature leaf-style hands. The reference 43032 makes use of a 48-month subdial, allowing the wearer to track what stage of the four-year cycle theyre in, and allows for more precision in tracking the changing years over a longer period. The hours and minutes hands are dauphine style and faceted.

The three-part case features a rounded profile, with all parts evenly mirror-polished. The bezel, rising from the mid-case gives the impression of a stepped case. On the mid-case, in addition to the crown signed with the Maltese cross, are four correctors to adjust the perpetual calendar. The slim, straight lugs further accentuate the delicate elegance of the face.

Holding the watch up to light helps appreciate the extent to which the underlying calibre has been skeletonised. Seen through the display caseback, there is an impressive level of hand-finishing on the calibre 1120QP. It wears vertical brushing, mirror polish and bevelling visible on most surfaces. Most of the driving wheels large enough for it have been skeletonised while many components, both at the front and back, have been treated to traditional hand-engraving in a floral pattern. The selfwinding rotor also benefits from this treatment, skeletonised to its most essential structure, with those remaining parts beautifully engraved. At the centre of the rotor is a similarly skeletonised and engraved Maltese cross, while on the periphery lies a 21k gold rim, to make up for the mass the structure loses from the hollowing.

The calibre 1120QP is a famed movement introduced in 1983 that built on the high-quality Jaeger-LeCoulre 920 bauche. It features a perpetual calendar module designed by Swiss complications specialist, Dubois Dpraz. The module remains in use today, with the most recent perpetual calendars produced by Vacherson Constantin still employing it.

Closer look

Condition

This Vacheron Constantin Perpetual Calendar is in very good condition throughout. The case and lugs show light signs of wear throughout, more specifically, light grazes are found on the topside of the lugs and bezel. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfection. The case proportions are strong, with the hallmarks and engravings on the caseback remaining crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.