The reference 5060 is an intriguing reference, seen by many collectors as marking the birth of the Aquanaut collection. Whilst not fully committing to the sporty aesthetic which the Aquanaut would come to embody, it captures many of the traits which have come to define the collection today, in particular the port-hole shaped case.

To those familiar with the grenade-patterned dial or rubber strap of the Aquanaut, the gloss black dial and leather strap of this piece may seem discordant at first, especially when paired with the porthole-shaped case and date aperture. What this piece represents is a period of experimentation from Patek Philippe, when they were trying to launch a new model, inspired by the Nautilus, though designed fully in house. The result was the reference 5060, which was at first included in the Nautilus collection, and then became the foundation of the stand-alone Aquanaut collection.

Indeed, during this period, Patek Philippe referred to the 5060A (the steel variant) as both a Nautilus and an Aquanaut, making it rather confusing to understand when they themselves started making the distinction. For example, a Patek Philippe catalogue from 1997 shows that both the 5060A and 5060J (the J representing jaune, or yellow gold) were sold as part of the Nautilus collection. Meanwhile, an instruction manual for a 5060A, printed in Switzerland in October 1997, clearly categorises it as an Aquanaut.

It is speculated that the 5060A and 5060J may have been prototypes in the development of the Aquanaut. The black and gold combination found on this watch is particularly attractive, with lume-filled Roman numerals and hands that hint towards the transition between the two models, as Patek Philippe produced some Nautilus pieces with a similar design.

Though the gold 5060 keeps a more traditional aesthetic, the stainless steel model introduced the grenade inspired dial and rubber strap which firmly cemented the key traits of the Aquanaut. In fact, the 5060J was only ever sold on an alligator strap and deployant buckle, still leaning into a more classic, dressy aesthetic. This 5060J therefore presents an intriguing combination of characteristics, embodying a period of experimentation and reinvention for Patek Philippe.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Patek Philippe Aquanaut 5060J will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Patek Philippe 5060J is in very good overall condition. There are a few signs of wear, including hairline scratches visible on the polished bevel, on the bezel and the lugs. A minor ding can be seen on the bezel edge at 12 oclock and between the lugs at 6 oclock. The caseback retains its brushed finish with a hairline scratch at top centre and the back of the top right lug. The hallmarks are crisp and well defined, and though the case may have been previously polished, this was done to a high standard. The gloss black dial shows no sign of inconsistency with the lumed roman numeral hour markers and sword hands ageing to a consistent pale-yellow hue.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.