This limited editionOcta Perptuelle Anniversaire Tokyowatch is one of only 99 pieces, created between 2009 and 2010. Each of the series is individually numbered (XX/99-OP) and cased in titanium, with rose gold accents.The Octa Perptuelle represents an innovative and thoughtful approach to the long-established complication, which hasn't been repeated beyond these 99 pieces.
Tokyo Anniversaire
This example, is one of few pieces from the Tokyo Anniversaire series, celebrating the opening of F.P. Journes Tokyo boutique. The watchmaker himself has demonstrated a long-standing affection for his Tokyo Boutique, the very first one he opened in 2003. Speaking to the Financial Times in 2010, Journe says that the impetus behind opening the boutique was that no retailer was sufficiently focused or well informed to sell the brand. Occupying two floors of a minimalistTadao Ando building in chic Aoyama, the boutique has been the connecting link with many of Journes most important clients in Japan.
Five watches currently make up the Tokyo Anniversaire collection, with each featuring ruthenium coated dials, polished titanium cases and rose gold accents. This was the first time an entirely new model was created for the series, which also includes modified versions of theSouverain, Tourbillon, Rsonance and Centigraphe. TheOcta Perptuellewas only ever made as part of theTokyo Anniversaire series, meaning that this approach to the perpetual calendar complication only appears in these 99 pieces. Both the dial layout and movement configuration weren'trepeated as part of normal production,speaking to theFranois-Paul Journe'sdedicated approach to limited editions.
Theuse of titanium for the cases is highly unusual for the watchmaker, especially when it is paired with the distinctive rose gold accents. As a result of their unconventional aesthetics andconsidering few pieces appear to have left the country in which they were first sold, the TokyoAnniversaire pieces have developed a cult following among collectors. As the only piece in the series to integrate a brand new complication, the Octa Perptuelle has also been a source of intrigue.
Building on the Octa
In the design, Journe reorients the original F.P. Journe calendar watch. Like the Octa Calendrier, the days of the week and months are displayed in two opposing windows, beside the silver guilloch dial showing the hours and minutes. The month aperture for the Octa Perptuelle conceals the leap-year indication within the month of February, switching to B FE or Bissextile February, every four years, with superimposed discs. The month of February is otherwise displayed as 1FE, 2FE and "3FE, using a more conventional three letter format for the remaining months.
Borrowing again from the Calendrier, the Octa Perptuelle features the same distinctive long arc for the retrograde date display, automatically advancing the date for months with 29, 30 and 31 days. Situated on the left side of the case, the Octa Perpetuelle features a unique lever system for quick adjustment of the months annually, with a locking mechanism preventing accidental changes.
The Design
Housed in a 40 mm dress watch case, the watch is made further distinguished by the ruthenium coated dial. The charcoal grey surface is delicately textured, giving the dial a mixture of tones and added depth. The overall appearance differs from that of the Ruthenium Collection, with a noticeably darker and more consistent matte tone.
The words "Invenit et Fecit" are inscribed below the rose F.P. Journe signature (Latin for Invented and Made or more literally "Designed and built by F.P. Journe") in classicF.P. Journestyle - a nod to signing conventions of a century ago. The lettering for the date discs is also highlighted in rose, complimenting the handset and exposed dial screws.
The Movement
This self-winding, F.P. Journe caliber 1300.3 perpetual calendar movement is 18-carat rose gold, with Ctes de Genve, constructed with 32 jewels and a shock absorber mechanism. It features a straight-line lever escapement, and monometallic 4-arm balance with 4 timing weights, adjusted to 5 positions.
It includes a self-compensating free-sprung flat balance spring, with off-centre 22-carat gold guilloch rotor winding in only one direction using a self-locking ball bearing system. The movement is engraved "Exclusive Power Reserve System" and "Precision Chronometer".
The Set
ThisOcta Perptuelle Anniversaire Tokyo watch comes with an F.P. Journe outer and inner box, the original stamped paperwork, a copy of the original purchase invoice and a copy of the paperwork from a full service with Journe in 2016. Limited to 99 pieces and wonderfully preserved, it demonstrates Francois-Paul Journe's long-standing affection for the Tokyo boutique.
Closer look
| Brand: | F. P. Journe |
| Model: | Octa Perptuelle - OP |
| Movement: | mechanical self-winding Cal. 1300.3 |
| Functions: | perpetual calendar,hours, minutes, subsidiary seconds |
| Features: | ruthenium-coated dial, rose gold movement, display back, rose gold accents |
| Case: | 40 mm titanium |
| Crystal: | sapphire front and display-back |
| Strap: | F. P Journeburgundy alligator strap, rose gold F.P. Journedeployant clasp, Zrich taupe grained leather strap |
| Lug/buckle width: | |
| Year: | sold in 2010 |
| Box & papers: | F.P. Journe outer and inner boxes, original paperwork, copy of original purchase invoice, copy of Journe servicing paperwork dated 2016 |
Whilst the calibre 1300.3perpetual calendar movement of this Octa Perptuellekeeps excellent time, there are some inconsistencies with the setting of the calendar, where the days and months will sometimes intermittently stick in-between changeovers - a fault which is often found with some examples of the Octa Perptuelle. Though it was fully serviced by F.P. Journe in 2016, it is offered with a complimentary service, organised through the Paris boutique.
