More than forty years have passed since the introduction of the originaland this now classic timepiece, is more popular than ever. Originally unveiled in the mid-1970s and designed by the legendary, thehas become a veritable horological icon thanks to its pioneering role amongst high-end, luxury sports watches.Introduced in 2006, the ref. 5712marked the return of the moon-and-date version of theNautilus, which was firstreleased a year prior with the ref. 3712.
HISTORY OF THE NAUTILUS
The early 1970s was a time of great change within the watch industry. At the time of its release, the world was already shifting towards highly-commercialised, quartz watchmaking. In 1969Seikolaunched the first quartz wristwatch, and its success drove the mechanical watch industry to critically low levels of production by the early 1980s.
Furthermore, the concept of a luxury watch in steel was a truly revolutionary idea. In 1976, the introduction ofPatek PhilippesNautilusfirmly altered the direction of luxury sports watch design offering a true competitor toAudemars Piguet's then four-year-old,equally designed by Mr Genta. TheNautilusoffered a different take on the idea of a luxury sports watch, though - like theRoyal Oak- it was made in stainless steel for the standard version.
The original ref. 3700/001A was not only unprecedented in its design, but also inits initial pricing to consumers. When theNautiluswas released, the retail price for the watch was $3,100 - considerable for the time, and comparable to many ofPatek Philippes gold dress watches.
THE DESIGN OF THE ORIGINAL3700
Remarkably, Gerald Genta is said to have sketched the3700s design whilst dining meters away fromexecutives. His five minutes of work, is today considered one of the masterpieces of modern design. Its etymology comes from Jules Vernes novelTwenty Thousand Leagues Under the Sea, after the Nautilus submarine, used by Captain Nemo.
Like theRoyal Oak, theNautilus water-resistant technology (120 meters) required innovative strategy. Gerald Gentas inspiration for the iconicNautilusarchitecture was to replicate that of the secure porthole windows, found on transatlantic ocean liners, complete with a two-piece, solid mono-block and octagonal bezel, secured by four lateral screws (concealed at 3 and 9 oclock), holding the case tightly together.
The 5712
Following the introduction of the originalNautilus, Patek Philippe experimented with differentcase sizes, materialsand dial designs. A few decades after it was originally sketched, the time felt right to gradually integratea dose of complexityinto Genta's design.Introduced in 2005, theref. 3712marked the first time a significantnumber of complications were integrated into the Nautilus case. Released the following year, the ref. 5712 has carried this legacy forwards to the current day, integrating a date, moonphase, power reserve and subsidiary seconds display. It was one of several models launched to mark the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus collection.
The 5712 reinterprets a number of signature design elements from the original Nautilus, mostly notably, the gradient blue dial with horizontal grooves.The different complications are laid out in an intuitive manner,retaining legibility and balance, despite the wealth of information displayed.Usually placed in prime position, in this case, the "Patek Philippe" signature is discretelyshifted to the right. Itadditionally features all the traditional indications of a time-only watch, with applied hour-markers andNautilushands with luminescent inserts.
Similar to its predecessor, the 5712 measures 40mm (between 10 and 4 o'clock), classing it amongst the "Jumbo" collection. Itfeatures Patek Philippesmodern interpretation of the Nautilus case, with 3-part construction, sapphire case-back and curved "ears" on either side. The case and bracelet are excellently finished, with beveled, polished and granular surfaces. The steel bracelet has virtually no stretch, with flat central links.
The Movement
The reference 5712/1A-001 is powered by Patek Philippes in-house calibre 240 PS IRM C LU (for petite seconde, indication de rserve de marche, calendrier et lune small second, power reserve indicator, date and moon), visible through the sapphire display-back. It features 29 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, shock absorber mechanism a self-compensating flat balance spring and a monometallic balance, adjusted to cold, heat, isochronism and 5 positions. Furthermore, the 22k solid-gold micro-rotor is finished in classic Patek Philippe style, with Geneva stripes.
The Set
The watch comes with a Patek Philippe outer box, wooden inner box, Certificate of Origin, leather wallet, product literature and setting pin.
Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.
Closer look
Brand: | Patek Philippe |
Model: | Nautilus Ref.5712/1A-001 |
Movement: | mechanicalautomatic calibre 240 PS IRM C LU |
Functions: | moon-phase, date, hours, minutes, sub-seconds |
Features: | power-reserve, display back, Patek Philippe Seal |
Case: | 40 mm stainless steel |
Crystal: | sapphire front and back |
Bracelet: | steel integrated bracelet (20 links total, 4 removable) |
Year: | 2017 |
Box & papers: | inner and outer Patek Philippe boxes, Certificate of Origin, product literature, setting pin |