A rarely seen variation of the Nautilus, this 3800J/1* is cased completely in yellow-gold, with a glossy black dial and Roman numerals filled with lume. The watch is an intriguing mid-size example that demonstrates Patek Philippes willingness to creatively branch out with this model while still retaining the core features of a Nautilus.

To those familiar with the sporty, steel look of the Nautilus, this all-gold example with an unridged, semi-glossy black dial may seem rather unusual. However, what this piece represents is Patek Philippes willingness to creatively branch out with this model, and in fact, we see that this 3800J/1 bears a strong resemblance to the Aquanaut 5060J, which is believed to be the foundational core of the Aquanaut collection.

This is an intriguing dial variation which makes use of Roman numerals as markers. These are most frequently seen on flat, slightly shiny, black dials, with the majority being cased in stainless steel and a few appearing in yellow gold, such as in this case. Some will recognise this style from the 3710, which was introduced in 1998. The earliest example of a 3800 with Roman numerals dates back to 1996, suggesting the design may have been introduced around the same time.

This mid-size variant still possesses all the key features that distinguish it as being a Nautilus, such as the porthole style case famously penned by Grald Genta and the ears bracketing the bezel. Further to this, however, this 3800J/1 features a seldom-seen thin bracelet, where the individual links are slimmer than those typically found on most Nautilus 3800 watches.

This reference 3800J/1is fitted with the calibre 330 SC, an in-house, ultra-slim movement developed by Patek Philippe. The movement features 29 jewels, a straight-line lever escapement, monometallic balance; adjusted to cold, heat, isochronism, and 5 positions, a self-compensating flat balance spring and shock absorber mechanism. Although the watch has a closed caseback, the movement is still finished in classic Patek Philippe style, with circular Geneva stripes.

Closer look

This Patek Philippe 3800J/1 is in very good condition overall. The case and bracelet show virtually no superficial marks from wear, the bracelet having minimal stretch. The dial and hands are in very good condition, the lume filled hour/minute hands and roman numeral hour markers remain intact. The hallmarks and engravings on the case back and buckle are crisp and well defined.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.