This is one of 20 examples of the Vacheron Constantin Mtiers d'Art La Symbolique des Laques Tsukimi* dial watch. Created in 2012, it puts the ancient art of maki-e lacquer craft at the centre of the piece. The dial has been created by the Kyoto-based House of Zhiko. The rose gold case measures 40mm across, and the extensively open-worked, manually wound calibre 1003 SQ is on display on both the dial and movement sides.

The Vacheron Constantin Mtiers d'Art collection showcases some of the finest artistic craft, encompassing areas such as engraving, guilloch work, enamelling, and gem-setting, all while maintaining the watch's technical excellence.

The La Symbolique des Laques was a series created under this programme, championing Japanese maki-e lacquer craft. The brand collaborated with artisans from the House of Zhiko, founded in Kyoto in 1661, for these maki-e dials. As part of this, Vacheron Constantin created watches with lacquer dials of different themes over a three-year period. Each year had a different theme, expressed through three lacquer dial variants. No more than 20 examples of each variant exist.

In 2012, the last year of this La Symbolique des Laques collection, the theme was seasons of the year. It featured Hanami (spring flowers), Tsukimi (autumn full moon) and Yukimi (winter snow) dials, with 20 examples of each. This is one such example of the Tsukimi dial.

It represents the first full moon of autumn, a significant event in the Japanese calendar since the Edo period (between the 17th and 19th centuries). Traditionally, it has been a time of contemplation, often resulting in beautiful poetry and music. The full moon, appearing in a pitch-black night sky punctuated by a few clouds, is believed to represent the ideal of this lunar event.

This scene is depicted by the artisans at House of Zhiko using the maki-e technique it involves sprinkling gold or silver dusting on a freshly applied layer of still wet lacquer. As the lacquer dries, it seals in the pattern the dusting has been employed to create. This maki-e style of Urushi lacquer traces its history back to the 8th century.

In this example, the black lacquer on the dial side has been entirely covered in a thin layer of gold dust, creating the impression of an overcast night sky. Successive layers of dusting have been employed in certain areas to create volume used to represent clouds this creates a three-dimensional effect. The moon, marginally obscured by a cloud, is created with silver dusting. Closer inspection reveals the fine granular texture that makes up this artwork.

On the other side of the same plate, the night sky is clear and pitch-black. It creates the perfect backdrop for Japanese maple leaves, slowly turning yellowish-red with the changing of the season. Also on here is a depiction of a tori or gate typical of Shintoist shrines.

The double-faced plate on which this this maki-e lacquer work is created is cased in rose gold. The case measures 40mm across and stands just 7.5mm tall. It is two-part in its construction, with both parts finely polished. The lugs are elegantly integrated into the midcase. They are 20mm apart and come on a leather strap secured by a rose gold pin buckle with the brand's half Maltese cross motif. The crown is knurled and signed.

Contained within the lacquer canvas is a golden rim where the extensively open-worked manually wound calibre 1003 SQ lives. The movement measures 21mm across and just 1.64mm thick and is on full display both on the dial as well as the movement sides. Its flat, sequential architecture makes it easy to follow the functioning of the balance, escapement and the wheels of the gear train as they go about the business of advancing the minutes and hours hands.

The calibre, crafted from gold is coated in ruthenium and extensively hand finished. The barrel bridge, for instance, despite its relatively small scale, wears a range of finishes including brushing and raised, frosted parts. The movement wears the Geneva seal. The balance beats at a frequency of 18,000 vibration per hour and the single, open-worked barrel offers 31 hours of reserve.

Time is displayed by the feuille-style, faceted hours and minutes hands. Crafted from rose gold, while the hours hand is polished, the minutes hand has one facet polished while the other has been bead blasted.

This La Symbolique des Laques Tsukimi example comes with its full set of box and paperwork which includes a detailed passport complete with a holographic image of the watch printed in it. The paperwork also includes Geneva seal documentation from 2012.

Vacheron Constantin has long been a patron of the arts, employing ancient techniques and motifs in its watches in a meaningful way. This Tsukimi dial example turns the rare craft of the 17th century House of Zhiko into wearable art.

Closer look

Condition

This Vacheron Constantin Metiers d'Art: La Symbolique des Laques & Florilege is in excellent overall condition. The case shows light superficial marks on the surface. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections and have been well preserved. On the caseback and buckle, all hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well-defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.