Inspired by the work of the pioneering 16th century cartographer Gerardus Mercator, this Vacheron Constantin Mercator 43050 integrates one of the most unusual ways of displaying time. The platinum case is paired with two retrograde hands, modelled after dividers used to measure distance on maps, with the hours jumping every 60 minutes against a map depicting Europe, Asia, Africa and Australia in beautiful black enamel.

The Vacheron Constantin Mercator 43050 was first added to the catalogues in 1994 to mark the 400th anniversary of the death of Gerardus Mercator, a pioneering 16th century geographer and cartographer. He is credited with inventing the map projection, which evolved into the world maps we use today. Produced over a 10-year period, it is understood that only 638 examples left the manufacture.

When it was first introduced, the Mercator 43050 was a rare example of a watch that paired classical styling with an unconventional time display, depicting the minutes and hours across just about a third of the dial. In this example, the 36mm platinum case is paired with retrograde minutes and hours hands, mounted co-axially, visually reminiscent of a divider used to determine distances between two points on a map. The one on the left indicates the hour on a 12-hour scale arranged on an arc; the minute hand, on the right, glides across a similar 12-point scale, graduated into 60 minutes. The minute hand moves across the scale once an hour, jumping back to 0 at the top of every hour. The hour hand makes a similar journey, moving across the scale twice a day. It brings intrigue and novelty to the process of reading time, building anticipation to see the retrograde hands jump. Equally, the shorter scale across which the passage of the hours and minutes is displayed makes this an easier layout from which to read the time.

The dial features a map depicting Europe, Africa, Asia, and Australia in the style of Mercator projections that the cartographer pioneered in the 16th century. It features the outlines of the continents filled out with representations of relief features, such as mountains, done in black enamel by accomplished enamellers Jean and Lucie Genbrugge. In fact, it was Jean, also a watchmaker, who initially conceived of the Mercator. A small signature underneath the minute arc credits them with the design, a rare feature for a watch from an established manufacturer such as Vacheron Constantin.

The enamelling is replete with many other small details. As is to be expected, all the names of the continents and the oceans that separate them are in Latin, as are features such as the Equator, the Tropic of Cancer, and the Antarctic Circle. A mystical sea creature appears at 9 oclock.

The slim, three-part case is classical through and through, typified by a stepped bezel, rounded midcase and coin-edge display caseback. The stepped, straight lugs feature sharp facets and are almost Art Deco in their details. The rim of the caseback, brush-finished, features light engravings detailing the brand mark, reference, and serial numbers in an elegant, calligraphic font. Also noted here are the precious metal hallmarks.

Visible through the caseback is the calibre 1120, based on the Jaeger-LeCoultre calibre 920. In this iteration, on top of the calibre sits a retrograde module, designed by Genbrugge. The automatic winding rotor, beautifully finished with Ctes de Genve, features a 21-carat gold rim, with calligraphic engravings noting this as a watch that was designed to celebrate the 400th anniversary of Gerardus Mercators death.

The watch is accompanied by the requisite box and papers, in a remarkably full set that includes details such as the original sticker on the paperwork envelope bearing the watch's movement number and case number, as well as its original certificate of guarantee and warranty papers, leather inner box, and cardboard outer box.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Vacheron Constantin Mercator will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

This platinum Vacheron Constantin Mercator is in very good overall condition, the stepped lugs and case show very light superficial marks, consistent with relative wear over time. The enamelled dial, hands, and movement show light signs of age, commonly found with watches of this era. The teeth on the exhibition caseback are extremely sharp, as are all the engravings and well-defined hallmarks. The watch comes as a full set, including its outer box and envelope containing the certificate of origin. These are tagged with the reference and individual serial number of the watch.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.