Believed to be limited to 28 pieces, this Roger DubuisHommageH37is a striking execution of the watchmaker's distinctive Hommagedesign.It combines arose gold case with an intricately engraved black dial, powered by a practical automatic movement, based on the high-quality Lemania 8810 bauche.
The Design
This time-onlypiece is perhaps the purest incarnation of the Hommageconcept, paring it back to its most essential components. As the name suggests, the Hommage pieces weredesigned as a homage to the great watchmakers of the past, according to Dubuis himself. In practice, this meant classic, vintage-leaning designs, combined with refined mechanical movements. This piece is a perfect execution of the concept, with its 37mm rose gold case and subtle details.
It features an intricately engraved wave-form like pattern, radiating from the central pinion.Striking, polished applied Breguet numerals surround this in rose gold, complimenting the case and dauphine hands. This style of numeralsfirst appeared just before the French Revolution, when Abraham-Louis Breguet helped to cement the style. Since then, these cursive numerals have been used on a range of prestigious timepieces, though they've become most associated with vintage watches from Patek Philippe.The printedminute track androse gold applied numerals form an appealing contrast against theengraved, dark surface, helping with overall legibility. Thedauphine hands are sharply finished, withthe two different portions of the hand reflecting the light in different ways.
The case is subtle and discrete, with its finely polished bezel and lugs, contrasting with a delicately brushed mid-case, a subtlenod to vintage dress watches from the past. Though this piece is fitted with a sapphire crystal, it is also accompanied by an additional closed caseback, which features fine perlage on the inside.
The movement
The watch is poweredby the Calibre RD 57,based on aLemania 8810 bauche. One of the highest quality base automatic movements available at the time, the Lemania 8810 was also used for the brand's perpetual calendar, as well as beingintegrated by other watchmakers of the time, such as Daniel Roth.
The movement bears the Seal of Geneva and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself.At the time of production, it was onlyPatek Philippe movements that carried the Geneva Seal,hencewhy Dubuis felt that it was crucial to have the same hallmark of quality. The sealfocuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.
The movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 25-jewel, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and a swan-neck micrometer regulator.As indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, thismovement was tested for accuracy at theBesanon Observatory,setting far moreexacting standards than a test from the Contrle Officiel Suisse des Chronomtres (COSC).
The Set
This watch is accompanied by its original black alligator Roger Dubuis strap and rose gold tang buckle, in addition to abespoke Anthracite strap in grained leather
Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.
Closer look
Brand: | Roger Dubuis |
Model: | Hommage H37 |
Movement: | automatic cal. RD 57 |
Functions: | hours, minutes, seconds |
Features: | display back,engraved black dial |
Case: | 37mmrose gold |
Crystal: | sapphire front and back |
Strap: | bespoke Anthracite strap in grained leather, originalblack alligatorRoger Dubuisstrap, rose gold tang buckle |
Year: | c. 1998 |
Box & papers: | - |