Believed to be limited to 28 pieces, this Roger DubuisHommageH37is perhaps one of the most pared back executions of the watchmaker's distinctive Hommagedesign.It combines arose gold case with a glossywhite dial, powered by a practical automatic movement, based on the high-quality Lemania 8810 bauche.

The origin of Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis started his career at , in the late 1950s,where hespent close to a decade in the after-sales department, repairing and caring for the brand's watches, including their prestigious chronographs. Shortly thereafter, he integratedPatek Philippe's complications department, where he has the opportunity to work ongongs, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, among others. His time there coincided with the production of some of the manufacture's most sought-after, complicated models - from the ref. 2499 to the - which Dubuis himself had the opportunity to work on.

Dubuis' enthusiasm for watchmaking was such that, whenhe had finished working a full day at the atelier, he would go home and work on repairingwatches for private clients, auction houses and dealersaround Geneva.In the '80s, he left Patek Philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself fully to the restoration of pieces from the past.In 1995, following a partnership with businessman Carlos Dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand.

The first Roger Dubuis watches were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking that Patek Philippeembodied, while having more stylistic flair. Dubuis' attempt to rival Patek Philippe themselves was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to designing deployante buckles. In particular, the Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of old, according to Mr Dubuis.

The Design

This time-onlypiece is perhaps the purest incarnation of the Hommageconcept, paring it back to its most essential components. As the name suggests, the Hommage pieces weredesigned as a homage to the great watchmakers of the past, according to Dubuis himself. In practice, this meant classic, vintage-leaning designs, combined with refined mechanical movements. This piece is a perfect execution of the concept, with its 37mm rose gold case and subtle details.

It features a glossywhitedial, with applied Breguet numerals. This style of numeralsfirst appeared just before the French Revolution, when Abraham-Louis Breguet helped to cement the style. Since then, these cursive numerals have been used on a range of prestigious timepieces, though they've become most associated with vintage watches from Patek Philippe.The printedminute track androse gold applied numerals form an appealing contrast against thelacquered white surface, helping with overall legibility. Thedauphine hands are sharply finished, withthe two different portions of the hand reflecting the light in different ways.

The case is subtle and discrete, with its finely polished bezel and lugs, contrasting with a delicately brushed mid-case, a subtlenod to vintage dress watches from the past. Though this piece is fitted with a sapphire crystal, it is also accompanied by an additional closed caseback, which features fine perlage on the inside.

The movement

The watch is poweredby the Calibre RD 57,based on aLemania 8810 bauche. One of the highest quality base automatic movements available at the time, the Lemania 8810 was also used for the brand's perpetual calendar, as well as beingintegrated by other watchmakers of the time, such as Daniel Roth.

The movement bears the Seal of Geneva and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself.At the time of production, it was onlyPatek Philippe movements that carried the Geneva Seal,hencewhy Dubuis felt that it was crucial to have the same hallmark of quality. The sealfocuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.

The movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 25-jewel, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and a swan-neck micrometer regulator.As indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, thismovement was tested for accuracy at theBesanon Observatory,setting far moreexacting standards than a test from the Contrle Officiel Suisse des Chronomtres (COSC).

The Set

This watch is accompanied by its outer box, inner leather box, two hangtags, an additional solid caseback, a leather pouch for paperwork, the Origin and Warranty Certificate, the Bulletin de Marche from theBesanon Observatory and the Geneva Seal Certificate of Origin. It comes on a custom-made brown grained leather strap, and is also accompanied by its original brown alligator Roger Dubuis strap and rose gold tang buckle.

To find out more about the earliest days of the watchmaker, you can read our article on .

Closer look