Limited to 28 pieces, this Hommage Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronographcombines a range of interesting complications, rarely seen together. One of only a handful of pieces which were kept by former authorised retailer Presmanes, Santander, this example was one of the first to be delivered to the jeweller in 1996. Recently serviced by Gal Petermann of Petermann Bdatt, it offers a unique insight, owing to its unworn condition, completeness and early production.

The origin of Roger Dubuis

Roger Dubuis started his career at , in the late 1950s,where hespent close to a decade in the after-sales department, repairing and caring for the brand's watches, including their prestigious chronographs. Shortly thereafter, he integratedPatek Philippe's complications department, where he has the opportunity to work ongongs, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, among others. His time there coincided with the production of some of the manufacture's most sought-after, complicated models - from the ref. 2499 to the - which Dubuis himself had the opportunity to work on.

Dubuis' enthusiasm for watchmaking was such that, whenhe had finished working a full day at the atelier, he would go home and work on repairingwatches for private clients, auction houses and dealersaround Geneva.In the '80s, he left Patek Philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself fully to the restoration of pieces from the past.In 1995, following a partnership with businessman Carlos Dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand.

The first Roger Dubuis watches were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking that Patek Philippeembodied, while having more stylistic flair. Dubuis' attempt to rival Patek Philippe themselves was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to designing deployante buckles. In particular, the Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of old, according to Mr Dubuis.

In 2003, after only eight years, Roger Dubuis himself left his eponymous brand. Though his output in the earliest days of the brand was limited, the design and quality of the pieces he produced have stood the test of time.

Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar

According to Mr Dubuis himself, he starting working on his first complication in the late 1980s - a perpetual calendar module with retrograde displays. For several years, Roger Dubuis worked on the complication with Jean-Marc Wiederrecht(founder of respective complications specialist Agenhor), for Harry Winston, who announced their own version of the Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar at Baselworld, in 1989. It was the first double retrograde perpetual calendar, andRoger Dubuislatermade the same perpetual module thesignature complication of his brand. The Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar is one of the quintessential Roger Dubuis watches of the era, powered by the Lemania cal. 2310 (as with Patek Philippes version of the same, except the Roger Dubuis is bi-retrograde).

A Classic Design

This Hommage Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronographcombines a range of attractive features, such as the distinctive rose gold case and crisp white dial, integrating the various complications found within the movement.Traditionally, it isunderstood that each variant of theHommageseries was limited to 28 pieces. According to Dias,the initial intention was actually limit eachseries to25.Following the suggestion of a collector based in Asia, where the number 8is consideredto bring good luck, Dias decided to limit each series to 28 instead.

The design is that of a two-register chronograph,with an off-white, lacquer dial. Its painted withblack, stylised fonts and red minute markers, which add a nicecontrast against the dial. The minute and hour hands are faceted rose gold, with blued chronograph, 30-minute counter and skeletonised date hands. Two arcs are visible on the dial at 3 and 9 oclock, showing the day and date, respectively. The months at 12 o'clock are separated into quarters to indicate the leap year cycle.

The case is very distinct with its polished, stepped concave bezel and polished lugs. The three-piececonstruction gives the watch a bold presence on the wrist, though classically sized at 37mm in diameter. Pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock are used to start, stop and reset the chronograph function respectively.The pushers feature a flared finish, reminiscent of the design found on thePatek Philippe,another subtle hommage to the manufacture where Roger Dubuis spent many years.

The movement

The watch is powered by the Cal. RD5632(based on the Lemania 2310), bearing the Seal of Geneva. The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 25 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator.

The set

ThisRoger Dubuis Hommage Bi-Retrograde Perpetual Calendar Chronographis accompanied by its original outer box, inner wooden box, leather document holder, certificate from theBesanon Observatory,Geneva Sealcertificate,hangtags, spare solid casebackand Certificate of Origin and Warranty (with corresponding case and movement numbers, as well as an image of the watch).It comes on a bespokestrap in anthracite grey and includes the originalRoger Dubuisalligator strap and its corresponding rose gold deployantbuckle.

Closer look