Limited to 28 pieces, thisRoger Dubuis Hommage ChronographH40integrates a range of attractive features,from itsversatile 40mmwhite gold case to itsshimmering, brushed black dial, with applied numerals.Poweredby theCalibre RD 56,based on the venerableLemania 2310,it represents the watchmaker's earliest brush strokes.

THE ORIGIN OF ROGER DUBUIS

Roger Dubuis started his career at, in the late 1950s,where hespent close to a decade in the after-sales department, repairing and caring for the brand's watches, including their prestigious chronographs. Shortly thereafter, he integratedPatek Philippe's complications department, where he had the opportunity to work ongongs, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, among others. His time there coincided with the production of some of the manufacture's most sought-after, complicated models - from theref. 2499to the- which Dubuis himself had the opportunity to work on.

Dubuis' enthusiasm for watchmaking was such that, whenhe had finished working a full day at the atelier, he would go home and work on repairingwatches for private clients, auction houses and dealersaround Geneva.In the '80s, he leftPatek Philippeto establish his own workshop, dedicating himself fully to the restoration of pieces from the past.In 1995, following a partnership with businessman Carlos Dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand.

The firstRoger Dubuiswatches were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking thatPatek Philippeembodied, while having more stylistic flair. Dubuis' attempt to rivalPatek Philippethemselves was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking theGeneva Sealfor his movements to designing deployante buckles. In particular, theHommagewatches, as the name suggests, were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of old, according to Mr Dubuis.

In 2003, after only eight years, Roger Dubuis himself left his eponymous brand. Though his output in the earliest days of the brand was limited, the design and quality of the pieces he produced have stood the test of time.

The design

ThisHommageChronograph H40combines a range of attractive features, such asa versatile whitegold case, contrastingblack dial and applied numerals.Traditionally, it isunderstood that each variant of theHommageseries was limited to 28 pieces. According to Dias,the initial intention was actually limit eachseries to25.Following the suggestion of a collector based in Asia, where the number 8is consideredto bring good luck, Dias decided to limit each series to 28 instead.

The design is that of a two-register chronograph, with ashimmering, circular brusheddialand applied numerals. Eachfaceted 5 minute indices and applied one minute markers are finely polished, complimenting the case metal and applied numerals effectively. All the hands - from the the central feuille minute and hour hands to the subsidiary dials and central chronograph hand are in white gold, bringing a welcome touch of coherence to an already information packed dial.

The case is very distinct with its polished, stepped concave bezel and polished lugs.The three-piececonstruction gives the watch a bold presence on the wrist, measuring 40mm in diameter. Pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock are used to start, stop and reset the chronograph function respectively.The pushers feature a flared finish, reminiscent of the design found on thePatek Philippe,another subtle hommage to the manufacture where Roger Dubuis spent many years.

The Movement

The watch is poweredby theCalibre RD 56,based on theLemania 2310.The movement bears theSeal of Genevaand was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself.At the time of production, it was onlyPatek Philippemovements that carried theGeneva Seal,hencewhyDubuisfelt that it was crucial to have the same hallmark of quality. The sealfocuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.

The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to five positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and a swan-neck micrometer regulator. As indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, thismovement was tested for accuracy at theBesanon Observatory,setting far moreexacting standards than a test from theContrle Officiel Suisse des Chronomtres(COSC).

The set

ThisRoger DubuisHommageChronograph H40is accompanied by its outer box, inner wooden box, leather document holder, certificate from theBesanon Observatory,Geneva Sealcertificate,Geneva Sealhangtag,Roger Dubuishangtag,andCertificate of Origin and Warranty(with corresponding case and movement numbers, as well as an image of the watch).It comes on a bespokestrap in taupe and includes aRoger Dubuisblack alligator strap and its correspondingwhite goldtangbuckle.

If sold within the United Kingdom, thisRoger Dubuis H40will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.

To find out more about the earliest days of the watchmaker, you can read our article on.

Closer look