Limited to 28 pieces, thisRoger Dubuis Hommage Chronographintegrates a range of attractive features, from its classic 40mmrose gold case to itscrisp white dial, with applied Breguet numerals.Poweredby theCalibre RD 56,based on the venerableLemania 2310,it represents the watchmaker's earliest brush strokes.
The origin of Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis started his career at , in the late 1950s,where hespent close to a decade in the after-sales department, repairing and caring for the brand's watches, including their prestigious chronographs. Shortly thereafter, he integratedPatek Philippe's complications department, where he has the opportunity to work ongongs, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, among others. His time there coincided with the production of some of the manufacture's most sought-after, complicated models - from the ref. 2499 to the - which Dubuis himself had the opportunity to work on.
Dubuis' enthusiasm for watchmaking was such that, whenhe had finished working a full day at the atelier, he would go home and work on repairingwatches for private clients, auction houses and dealersaround Geneva.In the '80s, he left Patek Philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself fully to the restoration of pieces from the past.In 1995, following a partnership with businessman Carlos Dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand.
The first Roger Dubuis watches were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking that Patek Philippeembodied, while having more stylistic flair. Dubuis' attempt to rival Patek Philippe themselves was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to designing deployante buckles. In particular, the Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of old, according to Mr Dubuis.
In 2003, after only eight years, Roger Dubuis himself left his eponymous brand. Though his output in the earliest days of the brand was limited, the design and quality of the pieces he produced have stood the test of time.
A Classic Design
This HommageChronograph H40 combines a range of attractive features, such as the distinctive rose gold case, contrasting white dial and applied Breguet numerals.Traditionally, it isunderstood that each variant of theHommageseries was limited to 28 pieces. According to Dias,the initial intention was actually limit eachseries to25.Following the suggestion of a collector based in Asia, where the number 8is consideredto bring good luck, Dias decided to limit each series to 28 instead.
The design is that of a two-register chronograph, with a crisp white dialand applied Breguet numerals. The unusual curved Breguet numerals are a nod to vintage chronographs from the past, notably the most desirable iterations from Patek Philippe. Eachfaceted 5 minute indices and applied one minute markers are finely polished, complimenting the case metal and Breguet numerals effectively.The central feuille minute and hour hands match thesubsidiary seconds subdial hand in rose gold, whilst the central chronograph hand and minute chronographsubdial hand are in blued steel, further enhancing the vintage appeal.
The case is very distinct with its polished, stepped concave bezel and polished lugs. The three-piececonstruction gives the watch a bold presence on the wrist, measuring 40mm in diameter. Pushers at 2 and 4 o'clock are used to start, stop and reset the chronograph function respectively.The pushers feature a flared finish, reminiscent of the design found on thePatek Philippe,another subtle hommage to the manufacture where Roger Dubuis spent many years.
The movement
The watch is poweredby the Calibre RD 56, based on theLemania 2310, much like thePatek Philippe.The movement bears the Seal of Geneva and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself.At the time of production, it was onlyPatek Philippe movements that carried the Geneva Seal,hencewhy Roger Dubuis felt that it was crucial to have the same hallmark of quality. The sealfocuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.
The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to five positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and a swan-neck micrometer regulator. As indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, thismovement was tested for accuracy at theBesanon Observatory,setting far moreexacting standards than a test from the Contrle Officiel Suisse des Chronomtres (COSC).
The set
This Roger DubuisHommage Chronograph H40is accompanied by its outer box and inner wooden box.It comes on one of ourgrainedstraps in taupe andcomes with its corresponding rose goldRoger Dubuis deployante buckle.
If sold within the United Kingdom, thisRoger Dubuis H40will be subject to 20% VAT. Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.
To find out more about the earliest days of the watchmaker, you can read our article on .
Closer look
Brand: | Roger Dubuis |
Model: | Hommage Chronograph H40 |
Movement: | mechanical manual-winding Cal. RD 56 |
Functions: | chronograph, hours, minutes, sub-seconds |
Features: | rosegold case,white dial, tachymeter scale |
Case: | 40mmrose gold |
Crystal: | sapphire front and back |
Strap: | strap, Roger Dubuisrose gold deployante buckle |
Year: | c. 2000 |
Box & papers: | outer sleeve and wooden box |
This early Roger DubuisHommage Chronograph H40 is invery good condition and retains all of its original features.The case is wellpreserved, with marks visible on the case throughout, consistent with wear over time. Faint signs of oxidationcan befound around the pushers, on the back of the bottom right lug, and around the caseback. It is guaranteed for authenticity and comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man.