Believed to be limited to 28 pieces, this Roger Dubuis Hommage Chronograph integrates a range of attractive features, from its classic 34mmrose gold case to its contrasting black and white sector dial. Poweredby theCalibre RD 56,based on theLemania 2310, it represents the earliest brush strokes of the watchmaker.
The origin of Roger Dubuis
Roger Dubuis started his career at , in the late 1950s,where hespent close to a decade in the after-sales department, repairing and caring for the brand's watches, including their prestigious chronographs. Shortly thereafter, he integratedPatek Philippe's complications department, where he has the opportunity to work ongongs, minute repeaters and perpetual calendars, among others. His time there coincided with the production of some of the manufacture's most sought-after, complicated models - from the ref. 2499 to the - which Dubuis himself had the opportunity to work on.
Dubuis' enthusiasm for watchmaking was such that, whenhe had finished working a full day at the atelier, he would go home and work on repairingwatches for private clients, auction houses and dealersaround Geneva.In the '80s, he left Patek Philippe to establish his own workshop, dedicating himself fully to the restoration of pieces from the past.In 1995, following a partnership with businessman Carlos Dias, he would establish his own eponymous brand.
The first Roger Dubuis watches were acclaimed by collectors because they channelled the traditional Geneva watchmaking that Patek Philippeembodied, while having more stylistic flair. Dubuis' attempt to rival Patek Philippe themselves was obvious in some of his choices, from seeking the Geneva Seal for his movements to designing deployante buckles. In particular, the Hommage watches, as the name suggests, were designed as a homage to the great watchmakers of old, according to Mr Dubuis.
In 2003, after only eight years, Roger Dubuis himself left his eponymous brand. Though his output in the earliest days of the brand was limited, the design and quality of the pieces he produced have stood the test of time.
A Classic Design
Roger Dubuis mainly produced Hommage Chronographs in three different sizes: 34, 37 and 40mm. Traditionally, it isunderstood that each variant of the Hommage series was limited to 28 pieces. According to Dias,the initial intention was actually limit eachseries to25.Following the suggestion of a collector based in Asia, where the number 8is consideredto bring good luck, Dias decided to limit each series to 28 instead. From that point onwards, that same collector was attributednumber "1/28" for many of the following pieces.
The design is that of a two-register chronograph,with ablack sector-dial. The face is painted withluminous Arabic numerals and minute markers, which add a nicecontrast against the black dial and compliment well the creamy white sub-registers. The hands are rose gold, with the hour and minute hands being feuille shaped.
The case is very distinct with its polished, stepped concave bezel and brushed concave lugs. The three-piececase construction gives the watch a larger presence on the wrist than the mid-size 34mm case would normally suggest. The pushers feature a flared finish, reminiscent of the design found on the Patek Philippe ,another subtle hommage to the manufacture. In a continuation of this theme, this HommageChronographalso features a rose gold deployante clasp, similar to those produced by Patek Philippe at the time.
The movement
The watch is poweredby the Calibre RD 56,based on the Lemania 2310, much like the Patek Philippe . The movement bears the Seal of Geneva and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself.At the time of production, it was onlyPatek Philippe movements that carried the Geneva Seal,hencewhy Dubuis felt that it was crucial to have the same hallmark of quality. The sealfocuses on the art of decorating a movement with finesse and skill, in the style of Genevan watchmaking.
The complexity of the movement is revealed through an engraved sapphire case-back, featuring a 21 jewel, straight-line lever escapement, a monometallic balance adjusted to 5 positions, a self-compensating Breguet spring and swan-neck micrometer regulator.As indicated by the "Bulletin d'Observatoire" signature on the dial, thismovement was tested for accuracy at theBesanon Observatory,setting far moreexacting standards than a test from the Contrle Officiel Suisse des Chronomtres (COSC).
The set
This Roger Dubuis H34Chronographin rose gold is accompanied by its original outer black box, inner wooden box, black leather wallet, Besanon Observatory Certificate, Certificate of Origin andadditional solid caseback.It comes on one of our straps, with its originalrose gold deployante buckle.
Closer look
Brand: | Roger Dubuis |
Model: | HommageChronograph Ref. H34 |
Movement: | mechanical manual-winding Cal. RD 56 |
Functions: | chronograph, hours, minutes, sub-seconds |
Features: | display back, black sector dial |
Case: | 34mm rose gold |
Crystal: | sapphire front and back |
Strap: | strap,Roger Dubuisrose golddeployante buckle |
Year: | 1997 |
Box & papers: | originalouter black box, inner wooden box, black leather wallet,Besanon Observatory Certificate,Certificate of Origin,additional solid caseback |