An example of Roger Dubuis earliest work, this time-only reference H37 576 is a piece that makes use of an unusual material palladium, the use of which is a testament to Dubuis skill and experimental nature. Further to this, the clean, classically-leaning design cements it as an exceptionally rare and early piece in Dubuis career, created when he was just beginning to develop his design language.

The history of Roger Dubuis is rich and complex. Dubuis started his career in the 1950s working for Longines, before moving on to Patek Philippes complications department, then breaking away to start his own workshop in the 80s. Initially restoring watches for clients and developing his own movements, eventually, in 1995, Dubuis would launch his eponymous brand with the help of businessman Carlos Dias.

Created in 1996, this is a remarkably early piece from Dubuis work that makes use of a material that is not usually seen within watchmaking palladium. The fact that Dubuis was making use of this so early on in his independent career speaks to the approach of Roger Dubuis as a brand, remaining true to traditional watchmaking techniques, but at the same time, being willing to experiment and try new things.

The watch is made from palladium, a rare white metal which resembles platinum, yet is considerably lighter, harder, and more resistant to scratches. Overall, this time-only piece has a modern style, as seen in the sans-serif font of the numerals and the watchs sleek proportions. However, this is combined with the classic typeface used in the date window as well as the very traditional dial layout, further highlighting Dubuis combination of classical and contemporary styles. The centre section of the dial features a sector layout, an attractive layout of the dial that is typically defined by closed concentric circles that segment the dial, and which can be found on a number of vintage pieces.

The watch is accompanied by a certificate from the Besanon Observatory, an accreditation that not only wasnt given to many timepieces but wasnt sought after by many brands at this point. Powered by the calibre RD 57, a movement that is based off a Longines 990 bauche, the watch bears the Genevan Seal and was regulated by Roger Dubuis himself.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Roger Dubuis Hommage Calatrava H37 576 will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Roger Dubuis Hommage H37 576 is in very good condition overall, with a few small imperfections consistent with light wear over time. The case appears unpolished, with some small blemishes visible on the polished surfaces and brushed sides. The reverse sides of the lugs show signs of previous step changes, though the hallmarks are sharp and clearly defined. On the case front, there are too small imperfections on the inner edges of the top right and bottom left lug, though these are barely visible in most lights. The bottom left lug itself is also slightly scuffed on the surface.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.