Laurent Ferrier and Only Watch 2015
Only Watch is a biannual charity event, wherewatchmakers,ranging from to ,donate a unique piece to be auctioned off publicly, with all the proceeds helping to fund research into Duchenne muscular dystrophy. For the 2015 edition, Laurent Ferrierdonated this particular piece, a derivation of their classic Galet Square Micro-Rotor, with some distinctive vintage design cues.Laurent Ferrier is a true independent manufacture, lead by himself, who worked at Patek Philippefor 40 years, finishing as their creative director. The objective of the Galet Square is to assert a bolder presence on the wrist, whilst maintaining the classic pebble style from which the watch is inspired. The entire watch is polished and mirror finished, while the crown itself is engraved.
The Design
The distinctive feature of thisGalet Square Only Watch 2015 is its brushed, silvertwo-tone 'sector' style.Atransferred circle, featuring curved black markers, divides the vertical satin-brushed centre from the circular satin-brushed exterior of the dial, creating a powerful variety of shades and textures. A lightly recessed sub-seconds indicator adopts a similar styling, withLaurent Ferriers signature Assegai-shaped hands executed in black.The "Only Watch 2015" inscriptionappears discretely at thespot traditionally reserved for the word "Swiss".
The case was re-designed for this Only Watch edition, integratingstraight lugs fitted outwith cabochons,replacing the usualamorphous, rounded lugs found on the Galet Square; thechoice further reinforcing the watch's overall vintage appearance. The stainless steel case, usually reserved by the brand for unique or limited editions, measures 41mm, wearing comfortably on the wrist because of its fluid proportions.
Unsurprisingly, the vintage inspiration and styling of the piece led some commentators, at the time the Only Watch 2015watches were announced, to draw parallels withPatek Philippewristwatches from the 1930s. Ben Clymer of HODINKEEcommented,
"A steel case, two-tone sector dial, plus one of the most interesting movements around here you have a sure-fired winner."
The Movement
Powered by the in-house, self-winding calibre LF 229.01, it is an incredibly high-quality movement that combines traditional watchmaking and modern innovation. Interestingly, where haute-horlogerie often favours a manual-winding movement so that it is not blocked by a rotor, Laurent Ferrier decided that contemporary needs called for an automatic movement. The solution was the incorporation of a micro-rotor as a winding mechanism, allowing the architecture of the movement to be shown completely.The fan-shaped rotor is made of solid gold and is suspended by a large bridge, together, intended to create the impression of a bird standing on one foot. Furthermore, it uses a pawl, allowing it to wind in a unidirectional manner, adding efficiency and reliability.
Impressively, this Laurent Ferrier Galet Micro-Rotor employs a double direct-impulse escapement, that improves the movement through its ability to use less power and maintain amplitude, achieved through the escape lever being locked down between two escape wheels.
The finishing of the movement is a major focus for the Galet Micro-Rotor, with contrasts established between the perlaged backdrop and the thick circular grained Geneva Stripes on the bridges. When viewed under a loupe, the incredibly precise finishing of the interior angles are shown, which are uniformly achieved through the use of a burin, and the handwork of the manufacture's skilled craftsmen.
The timekeeping of the Galet Micro-Rotor is impressive - it is chronometer-certified by the Besanon Observatory, outperforming its more commonly, COSC-approved peers. It has a power reserve of 80 hours.
The Set
This watch is accompanied by its originalOnly Watch box, papers and loupe.It comes on one of our taupe grained calfskin straps, and is also accompanied by its original Laurent Ferrieralligator strap and stainless steel buckle.The paperwork having been omitted when the watch was first acquired in 2015, Laurent Ferrier issued new paperwork for the watch in 2019.
Viewings can be arranged in Central London by appointment only.
Closer look
| Brand: | Laurent Ferrier |
| Model: | Galet Square Only Watch 2015 |
| Movement: | chronometer-gradedmechanical self-winding (automatic) micro-rotorLF 229.01 |
| Functions: | time-only: hours, minutes, sub-seconds |
| Features: | unique piece, display back,sector dial |
| Case: | 41 mmstainless steel |
| Crystal: | sapphire front and back |
| Strap: | taupe calfskin strap, original Laurent Ferrieralligator strap and stainless steel buckle |
| Lug/buckle width: | |
| Year: | 2015 (newly issued paperwork dated 2019) |
| Box & papers: | full set - box and papers |
