Inspired by a vintage Calatrava from the 1930s, this Erwin LAB01combines the watchmaking skill of Richard and Maria Habring with the design eye of industry veteran William Massena. Part of a limited edition run of 50 watches, it combines a glossy black sector dial,deadbeat seconds mechanism and a distinct bronze case.

Habring x Massena LAB

Habring was founded by husband and wife duo Richard and Maria Habring, creators of relatively under-the-radar watches from the small town of Vlkermarkt, Austria. Richard Habring is known for developing several notable complications during his formative years at IWC, including the split-second Doppelchronograph. The timepieces that leave the Austrian manufacture are known for being.

This piece is the result of a collaboration between Habring and Massena LAB, founded by .Massena isaveteran ofthe watch industry, having been a retailer in Miami and New York City,before acting as theChief Operating Officer of Antiquorum in Geneva. Respected by his peers, he's also served as theManaging Director atTimezoneand is ajury member of the Grand Prix dHorlogerie de Genve.

Known for his long-standing passion for watches,creating the MassenaLAB was his way of supporting and collaborating with some of the artisanal, independent watchmakers that he admires. As such, he chose to work with Richard and Maria Habring on a small number of pieces,combining their horological skill with his experience as a long-standing admirer and collector of independent and vintage watches.

The Erwin LAB01

Produced asa limited series of 50 pieces, all of which were individually numbered, theErwin Lab01combines abronze case with an attractive, glossy black sector dial. The overall aesthetic isreminiscent of vintage, Calatrava style watches from the '30s, with thebronze case and black dial bringing a more contemporary dimension to the overall design.In recent times, bronze cases have been chosen by several watchmakersbecause of the unique way in which they develop a patina,soon after they are exposed to the elements.

The dial features a sector layout,with closed concentric circles segmenting it throughout. The gilt style printing echoes the tone of the case, whilst also effectively contrasting with the black backdrop.As for theraised hour markers, these are slightly recessed, adding an interesting level of depth to the smoothness of the lacquer finish. The leaf-shaped hands are gold-plated brass, matching the numerals.

The 38.5mm case takes its aesthetic cues from early 20th century wristwatches, most notably those from Patek Philippe. It features a stepped bezel and spring bar holes on the side of the case. The oversized crown once again acts as a nod towards vintage pieces, whilst also helping with winding and setting the watch. The watch is fitted with sapphire glass on both sides and coated with anti-glare, allowingthe wearer to appreciateboth the dial and movement. An engraved "1X/50"serial number can be seen on the lower half of the caseback.

The Movement

This Erwin LAB 01is powered by theHabringA11MS movement, which isentirelydeveloped, manufactured, and assembled in Austria. The architecture of the movement is based on theValjoux7750, though the display-back reveals many technical and aesthetic refinements applied by Richard and Maria Habring.

Akey feature is the patented, deadbeat seconds mechanism, which ticks in one-second steps, driven by a gilded wheel and click-spring, visible in the centre of the movement. It features 21 jewels, an amagnetic escapement with Carl Haas balance spring and KIF shock-proofing, beating at a rate of 28,800 vph, with a 48-hour power reserve.

The Set

This Erwin LAB01is accompanied by its pine box and papers, alongside its original Italian-madegrained leather strap in tan andbronze buckle. It also comes withabespoke nubuck strap in chestnut brown.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Erwin LAB 01 will be subject to 20% VAT.Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.

Closer look