Introduced in 2006, the first edition of the DBD Digitale combines the typical jumping hours and wandering minutes with an instantaneous calendar, introducing a new calibre and a pared-back design. Taking inspiration from vintage pocketwatches, the crown is placed above 12 o'clock on the case. Of the 39 total DBD examples produced since 2006, 17 were made in this configuration.
The DBD Digitale was a new take on a digital display watch by De Bethune. The jump-hour complication was patented in 1925 by the Swiss watchmaker Robert Cart, whose approach featured an hour indicator that moved around the dial, pointing at the correct minutes. Over the years, there have been many interpretations of this method of reading time, with this DBD Digitale adding its own unusual flair to the mix. The in-line calendar is placed at the top of the dial, featuring the day, date, and then month. The wandering minutes are directly below, with a small arrow indicating the minutes. Meanwhile, the jump hour aperture is placed at the bottom of the dial.
The dial is a deep anthracite grey that pairs well with the rose gold case. It is decorated with the "Ctes de Bethune" motif, a finishing style that was also introduced with the advent of this watch. This delicate style differs from the traditional Ctes de Genve through the angle of the strokes, which are evenly applied across the dial, also providing a slight pinstripe impression.
The case itself takes inspiration from a pocket watch, with the crown placed above 12 o'clock, two flared lugs at the bottom of the case and lugs merged at the top, with an indent for the crown to fit comfortably in. The bullet-style lugs that De Bethune is known for adhere more closely to the case than with other examples, further giving the watch an intriguing look. At 42mm in diameter, the watch sits comfortably on the wrist, thanks to its unusual lug situation.
The movement that powers this example is the calibre 2044, which has a self-regulating twin barrel and a "De Bethune" patented balance-spring with a flat terminal curve. When you turn the watch to glance through the sapphire caseback, a rich blue night sky is revealed, studded with golden stars. Embedded near the top of the movement is a spherical moonphase that spins on its axis and is accurate to a degree of one lunar day every 122 years.
Closer look
Brand: | De Bethune |
Model: | DBDRS5 |
Movement: | manual-winding calibre 2044 |
Functions: | in-line calendar, wandering minutes, jumping hours, moonphase |
Features: | in-line display module, Ctes de Bethune, spherical moon, bullet lugs, limited edition |
Case material: | rose gold |
Case diameter: | 42mm |
Case thickness: | 15mm |
Lug-to-lug: | 45.5mm |
Crystal: | sapphire front |
Strap: | De Bethune bespoke fabric strap(to be delivered),black alligator strap, De Bethune rose gold pin buckle |
Lug width: | 24.5 x 22 x 19mm (curved) |
Year: | c. 2006 |
Accompanying materials: | De Bethune outer leather box and inner leather case, Certificate of Origin & Warranty, instructions |
Condition
This De Bethune DBDRS5 is in very good overall condition. Light superficial marks are found on the mirror-polished bezel and on both sides of the case, though only on the very surface of the material. The Cte de Bethune-decorated dial and moonphase display on the case back are free from any signs of imperfections. The hallmarks and engravings on the case back and buckle are crisp and well defined.
Warranty
The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.