This DB5W is a classically-styled and understated piece that was released in the first year of De Bethune's launch. An early exploration of their style, it is one of supposedly just 9 examples with a closed caseback, and only 21 in white gold. The watch bears several cues that are still present in later work, but represents the earliest thinking of a newly established independent brand.

One of the pieces released in the first year of De Bethune's launch in 2002, the DB5W has a classical, understated design that might seem surprising when compared to their later offerings, but represents a exploration of their style. Furthermore, in this watch we can see the seeds of several aesthetic cues that would go on to be staples in their watches. This particular DB5W is especially rare as it is one of 21 white gold examples, with a supposed 9 produced with a closed caseback and 12 with open casebacks.

The 42mm white gold case is perfectly classical and established signature De Bethune traits early on, with a finely finished, high polished case and solid lugs with ogival, or bullet-shaped, ends. In later iterations, we see a continued evolution of this feature, with hollowed out lugs and differing sizes but retaining the distinctive ogival shape.

The silvered dial complements the case, featuring a barleycorn-style guilloch in the center of the dial and a matte chapter ring where the blue Roman numerals are printed. A cartouche bearing the De Bethune logo is placed below the 12 o'clock marker, while the Breguet-style hands are similarly heat blued, and match the numerals, adding a tasteful touch of colour to the otherwise monochromatic colour scheme. The blue used on the dial here may have been a precursor to the intensely blued examples that the manufacture would release later on, while the hand shape is still used in later watches that leaned towards traditional stylings.

The watch is powered by a vintage AS 2072 calibre dating back to the 1970s, produced by the Swiss movement supplier A. Schild SA. DeBethune reworked the movement, adding several jewels as well as a solid gold rotor. While hidden behind a closed caseback, the finishing remains a highlight, with bevelled edges and polished components, in addition to perlage on the baseplate and snailing on the wheels. The caseback is engraved with "De Bethune" and the number of the watch.

Closer look

Condition

This De Bethune DB5W is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear, and the dial and hands show no signs of imperfections. The hallmarks and engravings on the solid caseback are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

This DB5W was recently serviced by De Bethune, and comes with the remainder of the brand's two-year service warranty, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.