This DB8* was introduced in 2003, intended as an evolution of the DB1, which also housed a monopusher chronograph complication. Part of De Bethune's earlier work, the watch marks an intriguing time in their history, where they focused on producing pieces with a more classical design. Steeped in history, it is also the more mature precursor to the modern DB Eight, highlighting the brand's roots.

Introduced in 2003, the DB8 has a classical, understated design that might seem surprising when compared to their later offerings, but represents an early exploration of De Bethune's style. In this watch we can see the seeds of several aesthetic cues that would go on to be staples in their watches.The DB8 is a monopusher chronograph, an evolution of the brand's first watch, the DB1, which housed the complication. Rather intriguingly, the DB8's story has already come full circle, as it is considered part of De Bethune's Heritage Collection, and the passing of its 10th anniversary in 2023 has already given rise to the DB Eight, a decidedly modernised reimagination of this classic piece.

Turning our attention back to the original DB8, the overall layout is clear and classical in appearance. A barleycorn-style guilloch can be seen in the center of the dial and a matte chapter ring where the blue Arabic numerals and central chronograph seconds are printed. A cartouche bearing the De Bethune logo is placed below the 12 o'clock marker, while the hands are similarly heat blued, and match the numerals, adding a tasteful touch of colour that nods to De Bethune's later obsessions with this colour in their watches.

The 42mm rose gold case is perfectly classical and established signature De Bethune traits early on, with a finely finished, high polished case and solid lugs with ogival, or bullet-shaped, ends. In later iterations, we see a continued evolution of this feature, with hollowed out lugs and differing sizes but retaining the distinctive ogival shape.

The chronograph here is also colloquially known as a "football timer", because of its single-register, 45-minute chronograph that allows the wearer to time both halves of a football match. It can be stopped and started via the pusher in the crown at 3 o'clock. The movement that powers the watch is a variation of the 045MC, developed while Denis Flageollet was at THA Ebauche, another similarity with the DB1 in this iteration, this has been tweaked slightly to incorporate the register at 6 o'clock. Turning the watch over reveals a closed caseback, a detail that further adds to the classicism of the watch.

This DB8 is accompanied by its original box that features ornate floral decoration throughout the surface. A letter from Denis Flageollet is also included, in addition to a recently issued certificate that classifies the watch as belonging to the heritage collection. Ultimately, the watch represents an intriguing period of independent history, marking the earliest features of a brand more known for its contemporary style today. While these earlier examples may be surprising to more recent lovers of De Bethune, their timeless appeal is something that can be admired by all.

Closer look

Condition

This De Bethune DB8R is in very good overall condition. The case, lugs, and closed caseback were left unpolished during the most recent service with De Bethune and show light superficial marks throughout, though only on the extreme surface of the material. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any imperfections. On the closed caseback and buckle, the hallmarks and engravings are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by De Bethune in September 2024 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.