Here is an example of the De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones*. The 42.6mm titanium case is heated to a shade of pale yellow, while the brands signature floating lugs are treated to flame till they turn a rich shade of amber. The varying tones are repeated in several elements on the dial side as well. The watch features several De Bethune innovations including the balance architecture; Triple Pare-Chute shock protection system; and spherical bimetal moonphase display that is accurate to 122 years. It is powered by the manually wound calibre DB 2115V4, which feature twin mainspring barrels that give it six days of reserve.

In 2011, De Bethune was awarded the Aiguille dOr at the Grand Prix dHorlogerie de Genve (GPHG) - a commendation that is awarded for the best overall watch in all categories - for the DB28. The line, one of the best recognised of De Bethunes catalogue, has been a canvas for many of the brands experiments with complications and thermal oxidation.

Where the Kind of Blue is perhaps better known, with the heat-blueing of materials being more established in watchmaking, the DB28 Yellow Tones offers a distinctive take on the art of precise application of heat to metal that De Bethune excels at. It offers the warmth typical of yellow gold while confounding the mind with the lightness that titanium brings.

The case, 42.6mm across and 9.3mm tall, is crafted from titanium treated to a lower temperature than it would take to the turn the metal blue. Such controlled exposure to flame turns it a delicate shade of yellow. Its monocoque form is high polished, with sapphire crystals on the front and caseback. The screwed down crown at 12 oclock features knurling aimed winding ergonomics. The case is secured to the wrist by way of the brands signature open-work titanium floating lugs, with design cues such as ogival or bullet ends. The lugs wear a subtly richer shade the amber achieved by tweaking the temperature they are treated to ever so slightly. The resulting effect is two tone, achieved exclusively by the precise application of heat.

The dial continues this play of aureate tones the bezels that frames the hour plots and also surrounds the spherical moonphase are finished in the same amber tone, setting them against the yellow of the stainless-steel hands and the triangular bridge that straddles the twin mainspring barrels. The spherical form of the titanium hour markers are echoed in the bi-metal orb that is the moonphase display. It is crafted from palladium and stainless-steel, with heat turning the latter metal a brownish yellow. The complication, manipulated with a corrector integrated on the midcase, is accurate to 122 years.

The triangular bridge has a mirror polished central portion, with the extremities decorated with the brands proprietary, symmetrical striping called Ctes De Bethune. The balance wheel is crafted from blued titanium, with white gold timing weights providing the lightweight set up mass. The bridge securing the balance is protected by the brands proprietary Triple Pare-Chute shock protection system. The balance interacts with a titanium escape wheel.

Owing to the inverted nature of the manually woundcalibre DB 2115V4, the display caseback wears a fairly minimal appearance. The plates are decorated with perlage, with the mechanics of the power reserve indicator integrated on this side satinated. The twin mainsprings offer the calibre six days of autonomy, displayed on a graduated scale by a heat-browned stainless-steel indicator.

This DB28YT comes with its full set of outer and inner boxes and warranty and instruction paperwork. It presents an interesting example of De Bethunes artistry, fittingly underpinned by its experimentation with material science.

Closer look

Condition

De Bethune DB28 Yellow Tones is in excellent overall condition. The watch shows virtually no signs of wear. The watch remains unserviced from new, though keeps excellent time and functions perfectly.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.