This is an early example of the De Bethune DB25WS3, distinct within the DB25 range because of its sporty aesthetic. This is paired with a white gold case, 44mm across and 12.5mm high. On the dial as well as on the movement sides, it wears a number of details proprietary to the brand. Aside from the time-telling aspect, the dial expresses the reserve left in the mainspring. It is powered by De Bethunes first self-winding calibre in 2024. The watch has recently been serviced by the brand.

The DB25 was first introduced in 2007, just five years into the brands story. While the line featured references that spoke to the prevailing classicality typical of early De Bethune, the reference DB25WS3 was notably different. While wrapped in the same case form, the dial expression was closer to the sportier DB22 and DB24 lines. This example was one of the very first examples of this reference.

Consequently, the DB25WS3 was paired with the larger of the case sizes from the line. Measuring 44mm across and standing 12.5mm tall, the case is fabricated from white gold. Three-part in its construction, the bezel is rounded, marginally extending beyond the profile of the slender midcase. The caseback, with an overhang like the bezel's, is where the lugs originate. These have a complex form, tapering and terminating in the ogival detail typical of De Bethunes designs. Another signature element, the hollowed-out lugs, are also present on this example. It serves to lighten the visual weight of the watch. The lugs are 24mm apart and feature a black grained, alligator-style strap secured by a simple pin buckle with the brand mark on the underside. The exhibition caseback, secured by five flathead screws is high polished and bears hallmarks detailing the precious metal the case is formed from.

The dial is marked by a cool blue toroidal outer edge, raised so it lies just beneath the curved sapphire crystal. Here lies the applied chapter of high polished Arabic minutes at intervals of five. There is also a chemin de fer-style chapter corresponding to it. This is also applied and created from the same high polished stainless steel as the applied numerals. The brand mark, at 12 oclock is also similarly formed. The centre of the dial, sunken in, has a satinated stainless steel chapter on which lies another chemin de fer track this one has been heat-blued. Corresponding to this is a chapter of stainless steel hour plots, also heat-hued. The centre-most section wears De Bethunes signature microlight decoration tightly packed concentric rings that create a lustrous effect. Under 12 oclock lies a linear power reserve indicator within an arched aperture. The stainless steel hands, with aperture ends, are also black polished to perfection.

Powering the watch is De Bethunes first self-winding calibre, the 2024. Consequently, it was equipped with a number of the brands cutting-edge innovations. With bridges crafted from titanium, in its natural shade and also blued, it took the edge of the heavy, precious metal case. It self-regulating twin barrels yield an impressive six days of autonomy. The fast-moving balance features a hairspring made of a beryllium and copper alloy. It is safeguarded by De Bethunes tri-springed triple pare-chute shock protection system. The full sized bi-metal winding rotor has blued titanium arms and a platinum mass. The rotor is similarly protected from the effects of sudden shock by a coronet of four clusters of industrial rubies. This set up is also proprietary to De Bethune.

Technical aspects aside, the movement bridges showcase a range of finishes, from media blasting to brushed details. The platinum mass on the winding rotor is solarised. The winding rotor reveals a blued titanium baseplate on which is detailed the reference number, brand mark and serial number.

The watch, which comes with a grained leather inner-case, has been freshly serviced by the brand. To enthusiasts of De Bethune's watches, this represents an early and sporty aesthetic wrapped in the DB25s refined aesthetic. Its modern size is matched by a suitably robust self-winding calibre.

Closer look

Condition

This De Bethune DB25 DB25WS3 is in excellent overall condition. The case and lugs show virtually no signs of wear. The dial, hands, and movement are free from any signs of imperfections, with crisp hallmarks on the caseback and buckle.

Warranty

The watch was recently serviced by De Bethune in May 2024 and thus comes with time remaining on the brand's servicing warranty. The watch also comes with a lifetime guarantee of authenticity from A Collected Man.