This is a Chronomtre Souverain* with a 40mm platinum case and a white dial with black printed scales. At the centre is engine turning in a clous de Paris pattern. Powering it is the manually wound calibre 1304 crafted from solid gold and elegantly finished. The watch was originally retailed at the brands boutique in Tokyo in 2020. The Chronomtre Souverain represents a distillation of F. P. Journes watchmaking philosophy, and its focus on chronometric performance. When it was first launched in 2005, it won the Favourite Mens Watch title at the years Grand Prix dHorlogerie de Genve (GPHG).

This expression of the Chronomtre Souverain, with a 40mm platinum case, is at once the most faithful to the original version that was launched in 2005 and also thoroughly modern. The Chronomtre Souverain was in fact a piece its maker sought to bring into the world since 1999 but chose to defer its release till 2005. When it was finally revealed, the watch went on to win the Favourite Mens Watch title at the years Grand Prix dHorlogerie de Genve (GPHG).In a catalogue characterised by off-centre displays, the central positioning of the Chronomtre Souverain's time-telling aspect was unusual. While between 2006 and 2015 the brand offered the Chronomtre Souverain in a 38mm size, the 40mm case represents the original vision Journe had for the watch that represented a distillation of his vision of watchmaking with chronometry at its heart.

This particular watch is made all the more interesting by its provenance. It was first retailed at the brands boutique in Tokyo in 2020. This retail outlet was F. P. Journes first anywhere in the world and the location was chosen to offer the first ever anniversary edition the brand produced. The watch chosen for the occasion happened to be the Chronomtre Souverain, with a titanium case and a silver dial coated in ruthenium produced in a limited series of 20 pieces.

The 40mm platinum case on this example is just 8.8mm thick. Its three parts are marked by the rounded bezel and caseback that protrude slightly beyond the midcase. All parts are evenly high polished. The flat crown features the thread motif that is the brands signature and aids winding ergonomics. The lugs are short and curve down quite dramatically, reducing the overall footprint of the watch face. As a result, the distance between lugs is a compact 47.5mm. The caseback, secured by the six holt head screws, features deep engravings detailing the brand mark and credo, product line, precious metal hallmark as well as the serial number.

The white metal of the case pairs with the pristine white dial to create an understated appearance. In contrast, the black printing on the chemin de fer minutes track, the chapter of Arabic hours in the signature brand style and the subsidiary seconds and up-down power reserve indicator, make for a perfectly legible arrangement. At the centre is engine-turning of a clous de Paris style. This detail has been central to the Chronomtre Souverains aesthetic from the earliest days. The power reserve indicator is marine chronometre-style it registers 56 hours since the movement was fully wound. The hands are heat blued.

Visible through the display caseback is the manual winding calibre 1304, crafted from 18k gold. The view is dominated by twin mainspring barrels, anchored by an irregular-shaped bridge. The barrels combine to provide 56 hours of reserve. The balance is adjusted in six positions, one more than chronometric standards require. The free-sprung architecture of the balance makes it resistant to shocks. In between the bridges, that feature Ctes de Genve that lines up perfectly and delicate anglage, the drive train is concealed by a plate that wears radial finishing with the 'Chronomtre Souverain' engraved on it. The baseplate features beautiful perlage. On the bridge straddling the barrels are engraved details such as the brand mark and motto, as well as its jewel count and the precious metal the movement is crafted from.

The watch comes on a 19mm wide brown leather strap, with alligator-style graining. The strap is secured by a signed platinum pin buckle. The set includes the original outer and inner boxes as well as warranty documentation. This refined iteration of the Chronomtre Souverain combines the watchmakers original aesthetic for the line with the advances in modern construction that the brand has incorporated in its manufacture over the years.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this F. P. Journe Chronomtre Souverain will be subject to 20% VAT

Closer look

Condition

Overall, this F.P. Journe Chronomtre Souverain is in excellent condition. The case and lugs show light superficial marks throughout, consistent with minimal wear, and only on the very surface of the material, more specifically on the bezel between the 7 and 8 oclock positions. The dial shows light signs of age, with the hands and movement displaying no signs of imperfections. The hallmarks on the caseback and buckle are crisp and well defined.

Warranty

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.