This Chronomtre Souverain is quintessentially an in both its design language and movement. Housed in a classical 40mm dress watch case, it's made distinctive by a number of signatureF.P. Journeelements throughout.This example, is one of few pieces with a Havana dial, a twist on an otherwise classicdesign.
The Chronomtre Souverain
In 2005, the Chronomtre Souverainwon the Favourite Mens Watch award the GPHG (Grand Prix dHorlogerie de Genve), the most prestigious award ceremony in the watch industry. Since then, the has seen a number of variations in the design, more recently featuring a to celebrate the opening of Journe's first boutique in Dubai.
The Design
The brown dial has a hobnail, Clous de Paris pattern in the centre, while the outer track holds the embossed decorative Arabic numerals. The tobacco brown colour of the dial is achieved through a combination of gold and ruthenium, which was achieved after multiple adjustments to the formula. The signatureJourne-style hands are off-white, andcomplement the warm brown tones of the dial. The outer-track holds embossed decorative Arabic numerals (also off-white in colour).Between 7 and 8 oclock, is a subsidiary seconds, with a power-reserve indicator at 3 o'clock, showing 56 hours. Overall, the dial layout is cleanly designed and highly-legible.
An interesting aspect of this timepiece lies in the power reserve, as when winding, instead of the indicator heading from 0-56, it goes the other way towards 0. This was deliberate by F.P. Journe, who borrowed this from marine chronometer clocks. The reasoning behind this lies in the idea that the power reserve indicator on this Chronomtre Souverain is not meant to tell you how many hours there are left, but instead how many hours since you have wound the watch.
The Movement
While this piece is undeniably attractive, it is the movement that F.P. Journe is famed for. Part of the manual-winding , it is certainly independent haute horlogerie at its finest, as the in-house, Calibre 1304 is made entirely of 18k rose gold seen through the sapphire caseback. The movement has two mainspring barrels in parallel, which work together, powering the movement.
Most impressively, is the chronometric balance fitted into the movement, which helps to provide the accuracy that F.P. Journe has based his watchmaking around.As explains thusly:
"Chronometrywas invented by the 18th century English and French watchmakers, when their respective governments organised a competition that would reward the first watchmaker capable of making a timekeeper that could be carried on board a ship."
The hand finishing is expertly conducted, mixing a combination of circular graining with sunburst and wave patterns. All screw heads are polished and all edges neatly chamfered withCte de Genveon the bridges.
The Set
This watch comes on a strap with curved-ends (measuring 20 x 19mm) and its original rose gold pin buckle. The originalF.P. Journebrown caramelalligator strap is also supplied.
Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.
Closer look
Brand: | F. P. Journe |
Model: | Chronomtre Souverain - Havana |
Movement: | manual-winding cal. 1304 |
Functions: | time only - hours, minutes, sub-seconds |
Features: | guilloch brown dial, display-back, power reserve indicator |
Case: | 40 mm rose gold |
Crystal: | sapphire front and back |
Strap: | curved-end nubuckstrap, caramel brown alligator strap from F.P. Journe with rose gold tang buckle |
Lug/buckle width: | |
Year: | sold in 2019 |
Box & papers: | inner and outer boxes, guarantee card |