This Chronograph reference 3237 was one of the first models introduced after the rebirth of Breguet under the Chaumet Brothers and master watchmaker Daniel Roth. The watch combines a classic gold case with a hand-finished guilloche dial, and is powered by the Lemania 2310 ebauche.

The rebirth of Breguet began in 1970, when brothers Jacques and Pierre Chaumet took over in the hopes of reinvigorating the brand and renewing the connection between the Breguet name and high-end watchmaking. Shortly thereafter, the brothers closed the French factory and moved production to the Valle de Joux in Switzerland, the epicentre of Swiss watchmaking.

In order to restore the brand to its former glory, Jacques and Pierre would need a Master Watchmaker to help. They approached Daniel Roth, whod demonstrated his talent over seven years working at Audemars Piguet, which hed joined as the only watchmaker who didnt come from Le Brassus, the brands historic home. Inspired by the work of the famous watchmaker, Roth agreed to help resuscitate the manufacture, though only after going back to school to further study Breguets archives and techniques.

The chronograph reference 3237 was one of the earliest pieces introduced by Breguet, and was powered by the Lemania 2310 bauche, a well-known calibre used by Patek Philippe in their reference 5070 or the Roger Dubuis Hommage chronograph series. At the time the piece was produced, Breguet actually owned the Nouvelle Lemania manufacture, which they had purchased in 1991.

The chronograph is in the style of a two-register chronograph, with a sharply executed guilloche hobnail pattern in the center and silvered brushed chapter ring with printed numerals. In keeping with the traditional style they were trying to emulate, two cartouches are placed at 12 and 6 oclock, featuring the makers name, Breguet, as well as the number of the watch respectively. Overall, the watch features many design cues that were cemented while Daniel Roth worked there, such as the engine-turned dials, coin-edged case, and distinctive blued Breguet hands.

If sold within the United Kingdom, this Breguet Chronograph Ref. 3237 will be subject to 20% VAT.

Closer look

This Breguet Chronograph is in very good condition overall. Light superficial marks can be found on the case and lugs. The dial shows virtually no imperfections. The hallmarks on the coin edge mid case at 6 oclock are crisp and well defined as well as the engravings on the case back.

The watch comes with a two-year warranty from A Collected Man, alongside a lifetime guarantee of authenticity.