This Audemars Piguet 5381speaks to the manufacture's sense of refinement. Featuringa distinctive hobnail bezel, lightlybrushed silver dial and a perfectly balanced, 33.5mm white gold case, this simple two hand watch brings anaustere and timeless sensibility.

A different face to Audemars Piguet

In 1875, Jules Louis Audemars and Edward Auguste Piguet founded the watchmaking manufactureAudemars Piguetin Le Brassus, Valle de Joux. Since then, the brand has become synonymous withaesthetic refinement, mechanical craft and historic lineage. Alongside Patek Philipe and Vacheron Constantin, it is considered to be part of the "Holy Trinity" of horology, which comprises the finest Swiss manufacturers. Though Audemars Piguet is probably most widely recognised forintroducing the Royal Oak in 1972, their contribution to watchmaking is far greater.

This ultra-thin, two handref. 5381 speaks to the manufacture's sense of refinement. Its white gold case features a distinctive hobnail bezel, paired with a lightlybrushed silver dial. Rather interestingly, it is powered by the Caliber 2121, which is derived from the mythical Jaeger-LeCoultre 920. This was the thinnest automatic movement in the world when it came out in 1967, and was used in the original Royal Oak, having also been adopted by Patek Philippe and Vacheron Constantin.

A Classic Design

Thewhite gold case of this Audemars Piguet ref. 5381features a range of subtle, yet thoughtful, details. The hobnail pattern on the bezel brings an added touch of complexity to an otherwise pared back design. Thisgenerates a range of different effects when it interacts with the light from various angles, whilst also adding to the watch's visual presence on the wrist.At 33.5mm in diameter, with 39mm lug to lug, the proportions of this pieceare perfectly balanced, helping it fulfil its role as a classic dress watch. The straight lugs, as well as the relatively large 18mm lug width, help thewatch feel larger on the wrist than its dimensions would otherwise suggest.With a thickness of around 8mm, it also hugs the wrist, in a way that is both comfortable and elegant.

The case also integrates a few details which imbue this piece with a vintage aesthetic, such as the domed crystal. The screw-down caseback also has a notched design, which isreminiscentof many mid-century pieces. The white gold hallmarks, found on the outside of the caseback, remain crisp and deep. On the inside of the caseback, you can findfurther engravings, including the maker's hallmark forSpillmanof La Chaux-de-Fonds,a famed casemaker who also produced cases forsome of the earliest Rolex Daytona's, amongst others.

The silver dial features a subtle brushed pattern, which adds further texture to the design. Perhaps one of the mostappealingdetails of this piece is the contrast between the "Audemars Piguet" and "Automatic" signatures - one is austere and timeless, whilst the other is much more playful and expressive. These are thoughtfully balanced, both in layout and aesthetics. A date disc at 3 o'clock adds a further touch of functionality to this piece.

The movement

This Audemars Piguet is powered by theCaliber 2121, which isbased on the Jaeger LeCoultre 920. This movementwas developed byJaeger LeCoultrein 1967, having been adopted byAudemars Piguet,Patek PhilippeandVacheron Constantin.

The ultra-thin automatic2121calibre features 36 working jewels, aGyromaxbalance and four ruby wheels to support the full-diameter rotor, which runs on a beryllium rail for stability. The rotor is decorated with Geneva stripes and edged with 21-carat gold, to increase the oscillating mass.

If sold within the United Kingdom, thisAudemars Piguetref. 5381will be subject to 20% VAT.Viewings are currently suspended for the time being.

Closer look